We understand that replacing an A/C unit is one of the largest expenses in the life-cycle of homeownership. So, we try to make it as painless as possible with our option to finance the transaction.

However, there are some unique challenges in processing a financing transaction for an absentee owner. Below are our options for payment for an air conditioning replacement for an absentee owner.

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It’s sometimes tough to distinguish between pool heaters because many of the marketing messages focus on benefits, not on what actually makes one pool heater different from another.

We’ve found that a key feature that separates a good quality heat pump pool heater from a poor unit is the type of heat exchanger used by the manufacturer.

What is a heat exchanger in a pool heat pump?

The heat exchanger actually does the bulk of the temperature change in a heat pump pool heater. Essentially, water is run across a hot coil, the water picks up heat as it runs across this hot surface, and then it’s pumped back into the pool. We like to use two analogies:

1. Firstly, it’s like taking a hot pan directly off of the oven and running water over it at the sink. The water hitting the pan usually makes a sound you can hear, and the water gets so hot that steam comes off of the pan. It’s hot to touch that water for a few seconds because the heat from the pan transfers to the water. That is what happens when the water runs across the hot surface.
2. Secondly, it’s like sitting in a bathtub and turning on the hot water again after you’ve already been in the tub for a while. Down by your feet, you can feel that hot water mixing in with the colder water, but the whole tub has not yet heated up. You’ll need to keep that hot water flowing into the tub for it all to feel comfortable again. That is what it’s like for the heat pump Pool Heating Services to heat your pool.

Most of a heat pump pool heater’s efficiency comes from how effectively it can transfer this heat from the heat exchanger into the pool. That’s why it’s called a heat “exchanger.” It is exchanging heat from one surface (the coil) to another (the water).

Tube-In-Tube

Traditionally, heat pump pool heaters have had what’s called a “tube-in-tube” heat exchanger. The water flows through a tubed pipe, and on the inside of that pipe is a heat exchanger coil (usually made of an alloy called cupronickel). The water flows between this outer-tube pipe and the inner-tube heat exchanger coil and picks up heat as it flows through it. This device was effective at heating the water, but one drawback to this style is the need to really push that water through that tube (it won’t just passively “flow” through that tube).

ThermoLink

AquaCal and Tropical heat pump pool heaters have been beautifully engineered with a “ThermoLink” heat exchanger. The water flows into the top of the heat exchanger assembly from the top. Then, it uses gravity to flow down to the exit valve at the bottom of the assembly. The water is heated much more passively as it flows like a waterfall through the assembly. Plus, the coil is made from titanium instead of the traditional cupronickel. The cupronickel alloy is much more susceptible to weakening from sanitizers and chemicals found in pool/spa water. Titanium is much longer-lasting than cupronickel because it is virtually impervious to water-chemistry damage (which is why AquaCal and TropiCal units have a lifetime heat exchanger warranty).

A variable-speed pool heat pump needs ThermoLink

In the past, when single-speed pool pumps were the norm, tube-in-tube heat exchangers were sufficient because the pump would always run at the same speed (pressure). In modern pool setups, we are seeing that two-speed or variable speed pool pumps are the new normal (new regulations will soon make them required by code). These pool pumps aren’t always running at the same “speed” (more accurately, they vary the water pressure).

Having a pool heater with a regular tube-in-tube heat exchanger renders the benefits of a variable-speed pool pump useless. That is because the pool pump must keep the water pressure at a high level in order to push the water through that tube-in-tube assembly. The patented ThermoLink heat exchanger in the AquaCal heat pumps allows the pool pump to ramp itself down to lower pressures, as low as 1560 RPMs. The tube-in-tube assembly has to run at over 2350 RPMs, a 33% decrease in efficiency. The ThermoLink heat exchanger will save customers approximately $25-94 monthly compared to tube-in-tube heat exchangers.

If you’re interested in a no-pressure, professional estimate, fill out our request form below!

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Plain and simple, many pool heater manufacturers are smaller and not as stable as most Americans have come to expect. There is a lot of turnover/buyouts, Every few years, there appears to be a new low-cost option that customers can choose, but they choose it at their own expense. Additionally, many pool heater manufacturers have very little support staff or quality distribution for their replacement and warranty parts. It’s this lack of support that makes us hesitant to suggest just any sort of pool heater for your home or business.

That being said, we are thoroughly impressed with three manufacturers: AquaCal (who also makes TropiCal units), Hayward, and Oasis.

We think AquaCal heat pump pool heaters are the industry leader when it comes to quality, warranty, and customer support.

AquaCal pool heaters’ quality

AquaCal has, in our opinion, the best heat pump pool heater on the market. The HeatWave SuperQuiet (the flagship product) from AquaCal is proven to be the quietest unit in the pool heater industry. While many other units even have some form of “quiet” in their name or marketing, the AquaCal is proven to be the best in terms of decibel rating. These units are virtually silent; you won’t hear them running if you’re any more than 10 feet away from them.

They are also the most efficient heat pump pool heaters. They accomplish that efficiency through their patented Thermo-Link Technology. Click here to learn more about the difference this heat exchanger makes for efficiency. This makes a huge difference in the units‘ efficiency when paired with a variable speed pool pump.

AquaCal’s HeatWave SuperQuiet also has a great feature for the Florida sun, a recessed control board. Pictured below (on the Tropical unit), this allows us to protect the control board from getting faded/damaged by the hot Florida sun. It’s a great and innovative feature.

AquaCal pool heaters’ warranty

One of our favorite features from AquaCal is the standard 2-year Labor Warranty. Unlike most pool heating companies, the AquaCal units come with a labor warranty that is completely executed by the manufacturer themselves (if you’re located in Florida, like us). With other pool heater manufacturers, if the unit ever has an issue, a technician from the local contractor who installed the unit would re-visit the property to diagnose the issue. AquaCal instead dispatches a technician who is employed by them, the manufacturer, to diagnose the issue and let you know what is wrong. Issues are incredibly rare, for one thing (we just have not had many issues at all with these units). However, the warranty terms show the length to which AquaCal will go to back up their product.

They also have a seven-year parts, seven-year compressor, and lifetime heat exchanger tube warranty.

AquaCal’s warranty is the best warranty for a pool heater that we have found to date.

Customer Support

A great part about living in Florida is the fact that we are the pool heater manufacturer capital of the country (and really the world). AquaCal’s factory and headquarters are based out of St. Petersburg, FL. Additionally, they have the same parent company as their distributor HornerXpress (both are part of Team Horner). In simpler terms, the company and all of its replacement parts are streamlined to work together very efficiently and effectively.

We’ve had no problems getting AquaCal replacement and warranty parts in a timely manner. So, you won’t be waiting for weeks for a repair part to come in when it’s not stocked locally. That is something we experience quite often when repairing many other heat pump pool heaters that aren’t as well supported.

In summary, we love the AquaCal Pool Heaters. Fill out this quick form below if you’re interested in getting a no-pressure estimate from us to install one!

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Have you ever noticed that it’s often hotter upstairs than it is downstairs? No, it’s not just your house, and it’s (probably) not your last contractor’s fault. Feeling warm upstairs is simply the result of the stack effect, which is a fancy way of saying that hot air rises.

Why Not Adjust How Air Conditioning Units are Built?

So we know why the stack effect makes the upstairs hotter—can’t we just design an air conditioner system that combats this by pumping more cold air upstairs and keeping it cooler? No. Here’s why: hot air rises not only in the summer but also in the winter. If you’re running the heat, with hot air rising in addition to the extra hot air you’re pumping upstairs, can you imagine how miserably blazing hot that would be? Not only that, it’s going to be too cold downstairs.

Is There an Actual, Plausible Solution to Warm upstairs?  

An A/C unit that pumps more air into the upstairs is out as a solution to a too warm upstairs in your house. There are other plausible solutions, but each one lacks practicality in its own way.

These solutions include:

• Having two air conditioning units. That’s right, two A/C units in one house; one would serve only the upstairs, and one would only serve the downstairs. This is possible, but the downside is that you’re now looking at the cost of two A/C units. The bill and expense of running both, along with the maintenance and upkeep, will continue to cost more even after the investment of having it installed. For many, the cost keeps it from being a practical solution.
• Installing a zoning system. A zoning system is a system that has what are essentially two different types of valves called dampers and actuators that can either shut off or turn on the air to different spaces within a house. The problem here: zoning systems don’t work very well, with a few very expensive, high-end options. When sectioning off air to certain areas, you can put too much air in too little space, which can cause system inefficiency and freezing. Like a separate A/C unit, it’s a whole extra unit that needs maintenance and can cause problems—and it doesn’t work well enough to warrant it. They can also be very loud, meaning you’re trading heat for a headache.
• Utilizing a ductless solution. Ductless systems are incredibly efficient, so this is my personal favorite on our solution list. As you can imagine, they don’t require any ductwork, so it’s just a matter of running a small line set outside, allowing you to repurpose air into other places. The only real downside here is that it can put stress on the existing system, and it can be expensive to install.

Find the Option That’s Best for You

It’s hard to beat physics, and it’s harder to beat stack effect. The answer to the question, “Why aren’t air conditioning units designed to solve this warm upstairs problem?” is simple. There is no easy way to design them differently, at least not when addressing this particular problem. There’s a trade-off no matter what you choose, and with many of the options requiring extra cost, maintenance, and upkeep, plenty of homeowners will settle for the upstairs being a little warm.

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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Why is my house so muggy, and how can I fix it?

Here’s the good news: by knowing what causes that muggy feeling (it’s called relative humidity) and how to eliminate or reduce that cause, we can help to increase your indoor air quality and keep you comfortable in your house.

What is Relative Humidity?

Relative humidity is the cause of a muggy feeling in the house. Relative humidity measures the humidity that is relative to the temperature. Suppose you were to add a bunch of sugar to a glass of hot tea. Once that tea cools down, sugar crystals can appear. In our case, the air is the tea, and the moisture level would be those sugar crystals. Hotter air can hold more moisture than cold air, so once “hot, muggy air” cools, it becomes even more humid and muggy.

Most homes will fluctuate between about 55 and 65% relative humidity in Florida. An air conditioning unit combats these lovely effects by not only cooling the air but also dehumidifying it. Moisture is extracted from the air as it runs across the evaporator coil in the air handler, and it’s dispelled outside the home through a drain. Therefore, the air conditioner cools the air and removes moisture from the house.

So Why Does My House Feel Muggy?

We’ve established how an air conditioning unit can help combat humidity and that general unpleasant muggy feeling. So, why does your home still sometimes feel muggy?

While air conditioning units are effective at cooling a house, there are a few ways we may accidentally be adding more moisture back into the house ourselves.

A few ways we introduce more moisture into the house and raise the humidity include:

1. Lots of People. A large percentage of a human being is made up of water. Humans sweat to keep themselves cool, and that, in turn, adds moisture to the air. If you’ve got many people in one place, that’s a lot of extra moisture.
2. When you cook, there are many open vessels that water is evaporating into the air from.
3. Anytime you take a shower, bath, or anything like that, you’re exposing moisture (and often steam) into the air. Good ventilation can help with this, but it won’t eliminate the moisture completely.
4. Pets and plants, just like people, will increase the amount of moisture in the air.
5. It’s just plain muggy outside. Hello, Florida afternoon summer thunderstorms. Those are the perfect recipe for sending relative humidity skyrocketing—it’s not blazing hot, but there’s a ton of moisture in the air. The more moisture there is outside, the more of it will come in every time a door or window is open. Even if you shut yourself in, your house won’t be immune to increased moisture on a particularly muggy day; an exchange of air will still happen from outside to inside, just from your house being there.

How to Reduce Humidity in Your Home

Our homes can easily become muggy, so the important thing to know is how to combat it, reducing the moisture in the air. There are a few ways to do this.

The first thing to note is that the best dehumidifying air conditioner is one that runs all the time. Plenty of people shudder at this because of the perceived expense, but if you get an appropriately sized A/C unit for your home, you’ll see a big difference. When you aren’t running your air conditioning all the time, it may still keep your house cool, but it won’t be an effective dehumidifier.

Let’s look at another example. Let’s say it’s raining like crazy outside. Your A/C unit has probably turned off because the rain on the house is cooling it down. That’s fine for the temperature, but it’s still raining outside, meaning there’s a ridiculous amount of moisture in the air. Your house is cool, but your air conditioner isn’t running, so it’s not being dehumidified. Before you know it, that horrible muggy feeling will set in.

Variable-speed A/C units will help with these types of issues. You can also choose to purchase a separate dehumidifying system, which we can install in your home for you. You can also buy small dehumidifiers that you manually drain, which can also be decently effective.

With lower amounts of moisture in the air, you’ll improve the indoor air quality, and you’ll be a lot more comfortable.

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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At Kalos Services, we take a comprehensive approach to A/C replacement and upgrades. We want to ensure that the quote for your air conditioning install has no hidden costs and is accurate the first time. We desire the process to live up to your expectations and that the energy efficiency of the A/C system will be at the highest possible level.

Always Get the A/C Replacement Process in Writing

As you consider quotes from other companies, ask them to show you their air conditioning installation process. Make sure to ask to see this process in writing. A reputable air conditioning contractor should always be able to tell you how they plan on making sure your air conditioning install goes smoothly. Do you still have more questions? Download our eBook, The Complete Air Conditioner Buying Guide

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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Here’s the process we complete for each new air conditioning install:

1. Reclaim old refrigerant for recycling.
2. Remove existing equipment and disposal for recycling.
3. Inspect existing ductwork, return duct and supports for new equipment.
4. Remove platform top.
5. Replace supports if needed.
6. Replace return box if needed or quoted as a request.
7. Replace or flush copper according to industry standards.
8. Replace drain.
9. Check low voltage wiring if found in bad condition once exposed or if included with the quote.
10. Ensure chase is sealed.
11. Replace condenser pad, if needed or requested in the quote.
12. Relocation of disconnects as needed or required by code.
13. Install new ¾” pressure-treated plywood platform topping, ensuring that the air handler will sit level.
14. Raise air handler as needed to ensure proper filter access and drainage.
15. Seal new air handler to return.
16. Install a new sealed four-piece transition to the existing attic duct.
17. Install secondary pans and float switch in horizontal applications.
18. Install primary float switches on all air handlers.
19. Install liquid filter dryers on all equipment installs.
20. Leak check all connections by positive nitrogen pressure.
21. Evacuate the system of air and water vapor while measuring for a proper vacuum with a micron gauge.
22. Paint all outdoor exposed tubing insulation with UV-resistant coating as required by the manufacturer.
23. Install locking caps on the ports to prevent the refrigerant from escaping.
24. Ensure no double traps exist in the condensate drain lines that can cause drainage issues.
25. Allow adequate time to ensure proper charge calibration at startup.
26. Check refrigerant charge using manufacturers’ specifications, as well as subcool and superheat methods.
27. Check amp draw on all new mechanical components at startup.
28. Check for static air and airflow.
29. Ensure customer is satisfied with cleanup and installation of the new system.

Always Get the Air Conditioning Install Process in Writing

As you consider quotes from other companies, ask them to show you their air conditioning installation process. Make sure to ask to see this process in writing. A reputable air conditioning contractor should always be able to tell you how they plan on making sure your air conditioning install goes smoothly. Do you still have more questions? Download our eBook, The Complete Air Conditioner Buying Guide.

Want to schedule a free estimate? Call us at 352-243-7088 or fill out the form below:

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One of the most common questions we get at Kalos Services goes something like this, “What’s the best air conditioning brand? I want to make sure you’re installing a good A/C system.” But what customers often don’t consider is that the HVAC contractor who performs the install needs have abundant knowledge of the systems they install.

There are many different A/C manufacturers in the market, so it is important that you do not fall prey to clever marketing. While there are a few truly unique technologies in the market today, most residential systems are actually pretty similar across reputable brands.

Why the HVAC Contractor You Choose Matters

You could purchase the best air conditioning system on the market. However, if the contractor messes up the installation, you will still end up with an inefficient, unreliable system. That means that the company installing your new unit matters more than the brand of the new system. Many aspects of a new installation involve personal safety, fire hazards, indoor air quality, system longevity, and long-term power usage. It’s essential that the HVAC contractor you trust with your installation is well versed and has a documented track record of consistent, quality work.

Get Quality Air Conditioner Installation

The most important aspects of any brand are the reliability of the products and the availability of the parts to repair the unit. Many of the less common brands may have a good warranty on paper, but actually getting the parts to repair the unit can take days or weeks to get.

The better manufacturers generally will have a factory distribution center in your area. When you need an air conditioning repair in the middle of the summer, it will be more likely that your part is stored in a warehouse in Central Florida. So, you can get back up and running quickly. An HVAC contractor might be able to get you a cheap unit, but make sure your warranty is actually worth something.

Every air conditioning contractor that hopes to earn your business should have their installation process in writing. The process (or lack of one) will show exactly the type of contractor they are and if you can trust them to install the best air conditioning brand the right way.

Some other helpful posts:

How Much Does an Air Conditioner Cost?

The Kalos Services Air Conditioner Install Process

Common Air Conditioning Installation Mistakes That Could Cost You Thousands

Interested in a Free Estimate? Fill out this form, and our Comfort Adviser will be in touch shortly!

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This is always one of the first questions a customer has when they get their first quote for a new air conditioning system. The problem is, with so many options and variance, it’s tough to give a simple answer about a general air conditioner cost. There is so much that goes into figuring how much it will cost to install that the suggested A/C prices are really vague and do not cover everything that might be involved. You can skip past the good stuff for the general price ranges at the bottom, or you can take the time to understand why a system might cost what it does and why someone else might get a very different price.

Typical Residential A/C Systems in Florida

The most common configuration for an air conditioner is a split system, where the “fan coil” or “air handler” half is inside, and the “condenser” is outside. Some systems are “packaged units” that are inside of a single enclosure outside.

A basic system might provide cooling only, with or without an electric heater integrated. “Heat pump” A/C systems can heat much more efficiently than with just the electric heater unit, and if you have a gas hookup, a furnace might be an option. Gas heating is generally more cost-efficient than a heat pump, but the heating efficiency that either can offer will cost you more up front.

Basic Air Conditioner Cost Install Inclusions

Replacing your A/C system involves a lot of work. There are often things beyond the system itself that can either affect the system or else cause damage. Other times, something might just be easier to do when replacing the system. It is almost always necessary for a qualified professional to come out to your home to determine what needs to be included in your new air conditioner cost. Whenever you see add-ons included, ask the service professionals why they’ve included them.

• Concrete Pad: having a good hurricane pad is required by code in Florida. It not only helps avoid damage in high winds, but it also stabilizes the condenser for more efficient operation and longer life.
• Drain lines: the “air handler” pulls moisture out of the air during normal operation. This moisture condenses on the coil and flows safely outside through the drain line. If there are breaks or damage to the line or supports, the condensation may instead leak and create water damage. Water might also back up, triggering safety devices that shut off the unit to avoid such damage. Replacing the drain lines helps ensure that the system will operate safely.
• Duct sections: air leakage into areas like attics or garages can dramatically affect efficiency. Collapsed sections or other damage might also affect the air balance and cause unexpected stress on the system. Damaged sections of ductwork can sometimes be repaired but are often cheaper and easier to replace entirely.
• Electrical: portions of the electrical circuit that supplies a system might be damaged or unsafe. This can be an issue for you as the resident, but it can also cause premature failure of key components, leading to high repair costs. Replacing at least the portion of the electrical circuit leading from the wall panel to the unit is generally recommended, but more aggressive electrical repairs are sometimes needed.
• Platform Top: if the “air handler” is in an upright position, it is usually positioned on top of a wooden return box. The top of this box will usually begin to sag with age, especially if poorly constructed or with water damage. Replacing this platform top is strongly recommended with any air conditioning system replacement.
• Refrigerant Lines: the copper piping that runs between the “air handler” and “condenser” carries the Freon or Puron, the refrigerant material specially formulated for thermal transfer. This copper tubing is exposed to the elements and degrades due to age and exposure to chemicals in the water or air. Failures here are relatively common and can have results ranging from requiring more frequent service to catastrophic equipment failure. Replacement is often not necessary but should always be considered.
• Thermostat: Replacement of older mercury-based thermostats is usually required, but a digital thermostat is usually all right if left alone. Aging thermostats are generally innocuous, as problems are typically limited to lost efficiency or temporary A/C failure. They don’t generally cause further damage. A new thermostat is still an inexpensive way to add convenient features.

Air Conditioner Sizing Options

The cooling capacity of an air conditioner is measured in tons, but the “tons” are not a measurement of how heavy the system is. Tonnage actually refers to the amount of heat an A/C unit can remove from a space in one hour.

Most reputable air conditioning contractors will calculate the appropriate tonnage of cooling capacity for a new system. Total home area, wall thickness, tree shading, window size and direction, and even awnings and curtains can all contribute to the overall expected heat load. It might even be different from what is currently installed in your home.

This is not an area that you can adjust. It is one thing if two contractors disagree on the tonnage required, and you should ask how the appropriate tonnage was figured, but this will be a set factor. A lower-capacity system won’t necessarily be able to keep up with the harsh Florida heat, but a higher-capacity system might waste energy by constantly stopping and starting; think how frustrated you get in stop-and-go traffic.

Efficiency Options

An area where you as the customer have a significant amount of flexibility is system efficiency. The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) is a general metric for how much it can cost to heat and cool your space year-round. The higher the number, the more cost-efficient the unit is to run, but beware: higher-efficiency systems can cost drastically more.

Florida energy code does require a minimum of 14-SEER equipment for any new install or replacement, but efficiencies of up to 20-SEER are available for smaller-capacity units. There are also several intangibles that come with higher efficiency systems, such as improved dehumidification and filtration options or even advanced controls.

When an air conditioning company is quoting a new unit for you, make sure to get at least three efficiency options from them in order to see the new air conditioner cost differences. Some A/C companies will only quote higher efficiency units to influence customers to purchase the bigger ticket item, so be sure you request to see an installation price for a 14 SEER unit to compare costs accurately. At Kalos Services, Inc., you’ll always receive four efficiency options to choose from.

Price Ranges:

As you do your research, be sure to include a qualified expert to ensure that the air conditioner cost you are expecting is accurate. Never accept air conditioner prices handed out over the phone as accurate or reliable. Be sure the air conditioning company visits your property to give you a thorough quote addressing every aspect of the scope of work.

Please fill out this form, and we will contact you about air conditioning replacement.

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We certainly believe in regular home maintenance on your A/C unit, but there are a lot of other jobs to keep up with as well. We’ve included a good list below that we found here in order to help you stay current with all of the jobs you should be current in home maintenance. We hope it helps!

As you go through this home maintenance list, don’t be afraid to reach out to our service partners or ourselves if we could be of assistance!

Annual Home Maintenance Checklist

January

• Organize your home improvement files. Review warranties and product manuals to check on recommended maintenance for furnaces, equipment, appliances, and tools. Mark important dates on your calendar to track scheduled upkeep and service.
• Inspect furniture, cabinets, and vanities for loose knobs, pulls, and hinges. Tighten or repair as necessary. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. You can free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.
• Fix squeaks in floors and stairs by applying weight to the area (having a partner stand on it works) and driving an 8d or 12d galvanized finish nail through the flooring into a floor joist or stringer. If you have access to the floor from underneath, glue and screw the nail backs to the floor or treads and to the joist or stringer.
• Look for bargains on discontinued appliances and tools. Before buying, make sure the warranties are valid.
• Make a room-by-room inventory of everything in your house. In the event of a fire, flood, or some other disaster, it will be important for filing an insurance claim. Photographs or videos of your possessions can also be helpful.
• Don’t close vents to crawl spaces. If you live where pipes can freeze and the floor becomes very cold, insulate pipes and under the floor. Vents play an important role in controlling condensation beneath a house.
• Double-check insulation around exterior pipes that are exposed to freezing weather to be certain that water cannot seep under the insulation.

February

• Remove drain traps under sinks and clean them thoroughly. Clean the pop-up drain plugs.
• Inspect the linkage for pop-up drains to make sure they are set properly. To adjust the linkage, squeeze the finger-operated pressure lock to release it and slide it up or down as necessary.
• Inspect grout and caulk around tubs, sinks, and showers. Chip out cracked grout and replace missing grout. Stained, discolored, and mildewed caulk should be cleaned with trisodium phosphate or another household cleaner. If the caulk remains discolored, remove it and replace it with fresh, mildew-resistant caulk.
• Refinish furniture in a heated garage or workspace equipped with ventilation fans.
• Otherwise, use water-based strippers, paints, stains, and varnishes specially formulated for low odors.
• Musty closet odors can be reduced or eliminated by removing the closet’s contents and washing walls with a diluted chlorine bleach solution. In addition, try replacing solid doors with louvered doors. Note: If the mustiness is the result of moisture, find the source and correct it. Otherwise, the problem will come back.
• To keep valves from sticking and check for leaks, turn all water valves off and on. This procedure includes outdoor faucets and valves to toilets, bathroom and kitchen sinks, laundry, bar, etc.

March

• Review the contents of your medicine cabinets and throw away dated prescriptions and over-the-counter medicines. Be sure all medicines are out of the reach of children or contained in a cabinet equipped with childproof locks.
• Celebrate spring by cleaning the garage. Hold a yard sale, or organize a community yard sale with neighbors. Dispose of paint thinners, household cleaners, and pesticides properly. Contact your city’s department of public works to find out the next scheduled collection of hazardous materials.
• Clean the refrigerator, inside and out, with mild detergent. Remove all trays and shelves, wash, and allow to dry thoroughly before replacing them. Remove old ice from the ice-making tray.
• After heavy rains, inspect your basement walls for signs of moisture. If you detect wetness, run a portable dehumidifier. If the condition persists, consult a waterproofing contractor. Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor.
• Test the pressure and temperature relief valve on your water heater by opening it and allowing some water to flow out. If little or no water flows out or it doesn’t shut off, replace it. Bad valves can cause explosions.
• Spring is a good time to build a doghouse. Make sure to provide adequate roof ventilation to allow hot air to escape. And don’t use pressure-treated wood in any area where your dog might chew it.
• Daylight Savings Time begins. Honor the occasion by replacing batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

April

• Inspect screens (both house and vent screens to attic or crawl space) for tears and bent frames.
• Clean window screens. Lay them flat on a picnic table or a pair of sawhorses and scrub them with a soft bristle brush and a mild detergent solution. Rinse with a garden hose and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Inspect outdoor structures for deterioration–especially signs of rot. Use a small awl to probe posts, railings, and window sills for soft spots. If you find any, plan to replace or repair them when the weather turns fair.
• Prepare for the outdoor cooking season by inspecting gas grills. Remove cooking grills and thoroughly clean them with soapy water and a brush with brass bristles. Remove accumulated grease from lava rocks and ceramic briquettes by turning them over and igniting the burners. Allow 10 minutes on high heat to clean the briquettes.
• Inspect garden hoses for leaks. Make temporary repairs with electrical tape. Pry out old washers and replace them. Don’t leave hoses connected to outdoor spigots until the danger of frost is completely over.
• Caulk open joints, particularly around windows and doors.
• Inspect the crawl space or basement after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the subfloor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen, and laundry. Find and fix leaks now or pay the price later.
• Shut off the water to the washing machine, remove the water supply hoses and examine them and the washers. Replace worn and damaged ones.
• Check fire extinguishers to see if they are outdated, have lost pressure, or are damaged.
• Check all weather-stripping around doors and windows for wear, damage, or loss of flexibility. Replace material that is no longer blocking air.
• Clean your garbage disposal. Grind two trays of ice cubes made from a mixture of one cup white vinegar to one gallon of water.

May

• Clean gutters. Inspect gutters to ensure all spikes, straps, and clips are tightly fastened. Use a garden hose to flush debris from downspouts. Make sure downspouts or splashbacks direct water at least three feet away from the foundation.
• Wash windows, inside and out, using a solution made from three tablespoons of non-sudsy ammonia to 1 gallon of water. Don’t work in the direct sun – the solution will dry too fast and streak. To clean windows with real (not removable) grills, use a hacksaw to cut a squeegee so that it fits the windowpanes exactly.
• Have the central A/C unit checked according to the recommendations of the unit’s manufacturer. Replace the filter in the forced-air system. Clean the debris from the condenser or heat pump located outside.
• Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and showerheads by soaking parts in white vinegar and scrubbing with an old toothbrush.
• Clean your swimming pool. Inspect and service pool liners and filters.
• Shop for seasonal sales on air-conditioning units and window fans.
• Dust ceiling fan blades.
• Set thermostats and automatic sprinkler system to adjust for weather changes
• Before placing metal patio furniture outdoors, coat it with auto polish.

June

• Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you’ll need three consecutive warm, sunny days. On day one, dry out the deck. Apply deck cleaner and scrub the deck on the second day and let it dry for 24 hours. On the third day, apply the deck sealer.
• Wash the exterior of your house using ordinary garden hose pressure and a mild detergent. Beware of the pressure washers; they are powerful enough to force water under the siding where it may encourage mildew and rot.
• Caulk exterior joints around windows and doors.
• Clean lint from the entire clothes dryer vent system, from the dryer to the exterior vent cap.
• Inspect and repair or repaint all patio and deck furniture.
• Check operation of attic fans and roof-mounted turbine vents.

July

• Check all exterior walls for peeling or cracked paint. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent recoating than paint on north or east-facing walls.
• Carefully inspect brick or masonry siding for cracks or missing mortar. Repair with fresh mortar or concrete caulk.
• Inspect roofing material for cracks and loose or missing shingles and repair as necessary. If you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from “flashed” areas in roof valleys and around chimneys and vent stacks.
• Inspect the operation of automatic light timers and motion-detector systems, especially if you plan a vacation.
• Prune trees and shrubs so that branches do not come in contact with the exterior siding.
• Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.
• Inspect foundation walls for signs of termites: tunnels or dirt bridges. If you suspect termites, contact a professional exterminator.

August

• Use a vacuum with a narrow nozzle to clean condenser coils on the back or underneath your refrigerator.
• Check faucets for leaks and replace washers or repair the faucet as necessary.
• Clean underneath range hood. Remove and clean or replace range hood filters.
• Fix “water hammer” noises by draining the plumbing system. Open the uppermost faucet (or the one furthest from the water meter) and the lowest (or closest to the meter) and allow the water to flow to a lower-level sink or floor drain. Draining the system restores air to air chambers. Close the lowest faucet and refill the system.
• Plan interior remodeling projects and get estimates. Plan for the work to be done in early fall.

September

• Paint interior rooms while it’s still warm enough to leave windows open—ditto for shampooing or replacing carpets.
• Check heating system including filters, pilot lights, and burners, and have the system serviced by a qualified professional.
• Clean and vacuum dust from vents, baseboard heaters, and cold-air returns.
• Remove window air-conditioning units and store them. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter.
• Tour the outside of your house to make sure that soils around the foundation are properly graded. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of three feet out from the foundation walls.
• Watch for year-end close-out sales on lawn and garden equipment.
• Inspect storm windows for any signs of deterioration and make necessary repairs.

October

• Detach hoses in case of freezing temperatures. Remove all paints, caulks, and liquid materials from garage or garden sheds.
• Inspect weather-stripping around doors and windows and repair or replace if necessary.
• Set thermostats and automatic sprinklers for winter.
• Clean gutters after leaves have fallen. Make sure downspouts are in good repair.
• Check gauges on home fire extinguishers to ensure a full charge. Replace if necessary.

November

• When setting clocks back to Standard Time, change batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Inspect automatic garage door opener and lubricate according to the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured.
• Check for leaks around the washing machine. A prime suspect for leaks is the water supply hose washers. Inspect hoses and replace them if necessary.
• Clean dishwasher, trash compactor, and countertop appliances.

December

• Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the “test” button. The “reset” button should pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Press the reset button.
• Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for moisture and other signs of leaks. Carefully inspect pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.
• Review the family fire escape plan with every household member.
• Unpack and test all electrical holiday decorations. Repair or discard any that do not function properly.
• Watch for sales on tools before and after the holiday season.

So, that’s a month-by-month breakdown of home maintenance practices. We hope this detailed guide to home maintenance was helpful!

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