We understand that replacing an A/C unit is one of the largest expenses in the life-cycle of homeownership. So, we try to make it as painless as possible with our option to finance the transaction.

However, there are some unique challenges in processing a financing transaction for an absentee owner. Below are our options for payment for an air conditioning replacement for an absentee owner.

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The work is not necessarily highly skilled or hard work in terms of needing immense education to understand its process. However, it does take commitment and hard work to actually put into practice. Attic temperatures here in Florida can sometimes reach up to 150 degrees, so it’s important to make sure that the company you choose takes employee safety seriously and trains them properly. Once you’re up in an attic for more than about 10 minutes, it’s easy to start cutting corners. So, proper training and leeway for needed rest are both key.

AN ESTIMATOR NEEDS TO CHECK OUT THE ATTIC

Many estimations in this business do not take the proper time to evaluate how exactly an attic should be treated. About three-quarters of the time, the other estimators from another company will simply ballpark the situation from down below in the cool living space so that they don’t have to get into the attic, sweat, and get their eyes on what’s actually going on up there. In our company’s expert opinion, you have to look at something to know how to quote it properly. There are a lot of different variables involved with quoting blown-in insulation, and there’s a lot of different solutions out there.

So, in general, make sure that your estimator actually gets up into the attic for about 10 minutes or so to get a good look at everything and take some photos. The estimator should go over the whole plan with you and tell you exactly what you need while also visually showing you. More than likely, you’re not going to follow an estimator up into the attic in order to see what they’re talking about, so you have to take their word for it. However, make sure that they give you some photos and that the photos are trustworthy. 

SEAL ANY PENETRATIONS TO THE ATTIC

We have found that most homes are pretty leaky and need to be improved with some ceiling work. A lot of times when somebody is insulating and gets quotes for blown-in insulation here in Florida, they are insulating a new addition. For example, they may be insulating a lanai or their garage. There are probably a lot of penetrations into the attic ceiling that had been left unsealed by the general contractor in these areas. That allows for a lot of heat AND humidity infiltration into the space.

Whenever we quote a customer for blown-in insulation, we offer to seal AND insulate the area. We quote this as a package because once there is a lot of blown-in insulation in your way, it only makes it harder to seal up. In order to make sure that the blown-in installation is the most effective insulator that it can be, we seal any penetrations into the attic using a Fonville spray. We install that the morning of the blown-in insulation job. The spray expands to fill any cracks or penetrations in the attic.

SEAL CAN-LIGHTS

Can-lights sit flush with the ceiling of your living space but are actually recessed up into the attic. It’s very important to make sure that these are actually sealed by themselves rather than trying to use any sort of spray fall around them. The reasons being that there are electrical processes involved. We never want to compromise any of that kind of material with anything that is flammable.

Through our work, we have found that in The Villages, can-lights are almost exclusively used to light lanais, and they are almost always unsealed and allow the air between the two spaces to mix one way some installation contractors mitigate. We install a cone above each can-light, allowing the area to be sealed from the rest of the attic, and not be touched by the new blown-in insulation. That’s not a bad way to accomplish the goal of sealing it, but it’s preferable to buy pre-sealed can-lights and install them to replace the existing can-lights in the space.

Many of these sealed the can-lights are actually LED, more energy-efficient, and in the long run saving you money on your power bill. As licensed electrical contractors in Florida, we can offer solutions like installing these sealed can-lights, which can accomplish better energy savings.

SEALING THE ATTIC ENTRANCE POINT

In general, there are a couple of different types of ways you can get up into an attic. There’s usually either a set of pull-down stairs or a piece of drywall with a frame that gets pushed up and exposes a large hole to allow access.

Many homes in Florida have the benefit of having an attached garage at the front of the house, so the easiest place for the attic access is to install the pull-down stairs or push-up entrance in the garage space. Unless you are looking to add blown-in insulation into your garage, this is not an area of concern. However, if your attic access is actually within the space that you are looking to cool or insulate, this is a huge point of heat infiltration. If you ever tried to push into an attic entrance that just has blown-in insulation all around it, you’ll know what a mess it makes whenever you open the attic. Hatch and blown-in insulation tumble down into your livable space to avoid this and to allow for less heat infiltration.

We actually suggest installing one of two solutions.

The first one that will help just keep the area around the attic hatch clear from any blown-in insulation is to install a barrier wall around the attic access. We built a small barrier wall, a foam board, in order to keep the blown-in insulation from falling down into your livable space. You’ve paid for us to blow in the insulation, so why would you want it to just fall down and be something that gets vacuumed up or thrown away every time that you go into your attic?

Secondly, we would suggest a large bag filled with insulation and placed directly on top of the attic hatch a stairway, insulate it. Stairway insulator is going to be a little bit different style, but essentially, we’re talking about having a moveable piece of insulation that sits on top of the attic hatch entrance and can be placed back whenever the needs to be closed up. That allows for you to make sure that you are not having a ton of heat coming through your attic hatch access point. But at the same time, you won’t have a giant mess every time you open it up.

INSTALLING BAFFLES BETWEEN EACH TRUSS

Many contractors leave this step out of their job. They leave it out because it’s simply just not easy and takes time.

Almost every home has a soft, breathable material around the outside edge of the home. This material is meant to allow air to infiltrate up into the attic from outside. So, it allows the attic to breathe and ventilate out of the ridge vents at the top of the roof. The material allows for air exchanges in the attic, so the air doesn’t just sit stagnantly, increasing in heat. Many people don’t know that their attic is actually open to the elements outside, but it’s beneficial to let that heat exchange occur in a controlled manner. The last thing that a customer wants to do when starting one project is to create additional follow-up problems without these baffles in place. 

The problem we see many customers have when they hire an unqualified blown-in insulation contractor is that the blown-in insulation usually falls directly down onto those soffit vents and closes them up. When that happens, the soffit vents can’t allow air to enter the space and ventilate through to the Richmond at the top of the attic. Essentially, the fallen insulation is sealing in that space, and when it does so, it’s actually creating a higher level of humidity and a myriad of other problems.

The solution to that problem is to staple cardboard core polyurethane baffles between each of the trusses in the attic. That allows for a natural barrier to be formed. It also allows the blown-in insulation to bond right to the edge of the attic space without ever falling onto the soffit.

Another central part is to make sure that the baffles are tall enough for the amount of installation that is being installed. The thicker the installation, the taller the baffles need to be. Unfortunately, it is not too easy. Essentially, a technician will need to be on their back, should be through the attic, stopping at every truss bay, and stapling these baffles into place one by one. Take a look at our video below to get a better sense of this procedure.

CONCLUSION

As you can see within our five points, the prep work is everything. The blown-in insulation portion is actually the easiest part of the job. However, if your contractor fails to prepare for the job, you will be setting yourself up for a long list of problems in the future. Make sure you work with trustworthy and detail-oriented technicians to save yourself any headaches. If you have any questions, please feel free to give our office a call at 352-224-3708.

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We certainly believe in regular home maintenance on your A/C unit, but there are a lot of other jobs to keep up with as well. We’ve included a good list below that we found here in order to help you stay current with all of the jobs you should be current in home maintenance. We hope it helps!

As you go through this home maintenance list, don’t be afraid to reach out to our service partners or ourselves if we could be of assistance!

Annual Home Maintenance Checklist

January

• Organize your home improvement files. Review warranties and product manuals to check on recommended maintenance for furnaces, equipment, appliances, and tools. Mark important dates on your calendar to track scheduled upkeep and service.
• Inspect furniture, cabinets, and vanities for loose knobs, pulls, and hinges. Tighten or repair as necessary. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. You can free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.
• Fix squeaks in floors and stairs by applying weight to the area (having a partner stand on it works) and driving an 8d or 12d galvanized finish nail through the flooring into a floor joist or stringer. If you have access to the floor from underneath, glue and screw the nail backs to the floor or treads and to the joist or stringer.
• Look for bargains on discontinued appliances and tools. Before buying, make sure the warranties are valid.
• Make a room-by-room inventory of everything in your house. In the event of a fire, flood, or some other disaster, it will be important for filing an insurance claim. Photographs or videos of your possessions can also be helpful.
• Don’t close vents to crawl spaces. If you live where pipes can freeze and the floor becomes very cold, insulate pipes and under the floor. Vents play an important role in controlling condensation beneath a house.
• Double-check insulation around exterior pipes that are exposed to freezing weather to be certain that water cannot seep under the insulation.

February

• Remove drain traps under sinks and clean them thoroughly. Clean the pop-up drain plugs.
• Inspect the linkage for pop-up drains to make sure they are set properly. To adjust the linkage, squeeze the finger-operated pressure lock to release it and slide it up or down as necessary.
• Inspect grout and caulk around tubs, sinks, and showers. Chip out cracked grout and replace missing grout. Stained, discolored, and mildewed caulk should be cleaned with trisodium phosphate or another household cleaner. If the caulk remains discolored, remove it and replace it with fresh, mildew-resistant caulk.
• Refinish furniture in a heated garage or workspace equipped with ventilation fans.
• Otherwise, use water-based strippers, paints, stains, and varnishes specially formulated for low odors.
• Musty closet odors can be reduced or eliminated by removing the closet’s contents and washing walls with a diluted chlorine bleach solution. In addition, try replacing solid doors with louvered doors. Note: If the mustiness is the result of moisture, find the source and correct it. Otherwise, the problem will come back.
• To keep valves from sticking and check for leaks, turn all water valves off and on. This procedure includes outdoor faucets and valves to toilets, bathroom and kitchen sinks, laundry, bar, etc.

March

• Review the contents of your medicine cabinets and throw away dated prescriptions and over-the-counter medicines. Be sure all medicines are out of the reach of children or contained in a cabinet equipped with childproof locks.
• Celebrate spring by cleaning the garage. Hold a yard sale, or organize a community yard sale with neighbors. Dispose of paint thinners, household cleaners, and pesticides properly. Contact your city’s department of public works to find out the next scheduled collection of hazardous materials.
• Clean the refrigerator, inside and out, with mild detergent. Remove all trays and shelves, wash, and allow to dry thoroughly before replacing them. Remove old ice from the ice-making tray.
• After heavy rains, inspect your basement walls for signs of moisture. If you detect wetness, run a portable dehumidifier. If the condition persists, consult a waterproofing contractor. Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor.
• Test the pressure and temperature relief valve on your water heater by opening it and allowing some water to flow out. If little or no water flows out or it doesn’t shut off, replace it. Bad valves can cause explosions.
• Spring is a good time to build a doghouse. Make sure to provide adequate roof ventilation to allow hot air to escape. And don’t use pressure-treated wood in any area where your dog might chew it.
• Daylight Savings Time begins. Honor the occasion by replacing batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

April

• Inspect screens (both house and vent screens to attic or crawl space) for tears and bent frames.
• Clean window screens. Lay them flat on a picnic table or a pair of sawhorses and scrub them with a soft bristle brush and a mild detergent solution. Rinse with a garden hose and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Inspect outdoor structures for deterioration–especially signs of rot. Use a small awl to probe posts, railings, and window sills for soft spots. If you find any, plan to replace or repair them when the weather turns fair.
• Prepare for the outdoor cooking season by inspecting gas grills. Remove cooking grills and thoroughly clean them with soapy water and a brush with brass bristles. Remove accumulated grease from lava rocks and ceramic briquettes by turning them over and igniting the burners. Allow 10 minutes on high heat to clean the briquettes.
• Inspect garden hoses for leaks. Make temporary repairs with electrical tape. Pry out old washers and replace them. Don’t leave hoses connected to outdoor spigots until the danger of frost is completely over.
• Caulk open joints, particularly around windows and doors.
• Inspect the crawl space or basement after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the subfloor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen, and laundry. Find and fix leaks now or pay the price later.
• Shut off the water to the washing machine, remove the water supply hoses and examine them and the washers. Replace worn and damaged ones.
• Check fire extinguishers to see if they are outdated, have lost pressure, or are damaged.
• Check all weather-stripping around doors and windows for wear, damage, or loss of flexibility. Replace material that is no longer blocking air.
• Clean your garbage disposal. Grind two trays of ice cubes made from a mixture of one cup white vinegar to one gallon of water.

May

• Clean gutters. Inspect gutters to ensure all spikes, straps, and clips are tightly fastened. Use a garden hose to flush debris from downspouts. Make sure downspouts or splashbacks direct water at least three feet away from the foundation.
• Wash windows, inside and out, using a solution made from three tablespoons of non-sudsy ammonia to 1 gallon of water. Don’t work in the direct sun – the solution will dry too fast and streak. To clean windows with real (not removable) grills, use a hacksaw to cut a squeegee so that it fits the windowpanes exactly.
• Have the central A/C unit checked according to the recommendations of the unit’s manufacturer. Replace the filter in the forced-air system. Clean the debris from the condenser or heat pump located outside.
• Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and showerheads by soaking parts in white vinegar and scrubbing with an old toothbrush.
• Clean your swimming pool. Inspect and service pool liners and filters.
• Shop for seasonal sales on air-conditioning units and window fans.
• Dust ceiling fan blades.
• Set thermostats and automatic sprinkler system to adjust for weather changes
• Before placing metal patio furniture outdoors, coat it with auto polish.

June

• Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you’ll need three consecutive warm, sunny days. On day one, dry out the deck. Apply deck cleaner and scrub the deck on the second day and let it dry for 24 hours. On the third day, apply the deck sealer.
• Wash the exterior of your house using ordinary garden hose pressure and a mild detergent. Beware of the pressure washers; they are powerful enough to force water under the siding where it may encourage mildew and rot.
• Caulk exterior joints around windows and doors.
• Clean lint from the entire clothes dryer vent system, from the dryer to the exterior vent cap.
• Inspect and repair or repaint all patio and deck furniture.
• Check operation of attic fans and roof-mounted turbine vents.

July

• Check all exterior walls for peeling or cracked paint. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent recoating than paint on north or east-facing walls.
• Carefully inspect brick or masonry siding for cracks or missing mortar. Repair with fresh mortar or concrete caulk.
• Inspect roofing material for cracks and loose or missing shingles and repair as necessary. If you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from “flashed” areas in roof valleys and around chimneys and vent stacks.
• Inspect the operation of automatic light timers and motion-detector systems, especially if you plan a vacation.
• Prune trees and shrubs so that branches do not come in contact with the exterior siding.
• Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.
• Inspect foundation walls for signs of termites: tunnels or dirt bridges. If you suspect termites, contact a professional exterminator.

August

• Use a vacuum with a narrow nozzle to clean condenser coils on the back or underneath your refrigerator.
• Check faucets for leaks and replace washers or repair the faucet as necessary.
• Clean underneath range hood. Remove and clean or replace range hood filters.
• Fix “water hammer” noises by draining the plumbing system. Open the uppermost faucet (or the one furthest from the water meter) and the lowest (or closest to the meter) and allow the water to flow to a lower-level sink or floor drain. Draining the system restores air to air chambers. Close the lowest faucet and refill the system.
• Plan interior remodeling projects and get estimates. Plan for the work to be done in early fall.

September

• Paint interior rooms while it’s still warm enough to leave windows open—ditto for shampooing or replacing carpets.
• Check heating system including filters, pilot lights, and burners, and have the system serviced by a qualified professional.
• Clean and vacuum dust from vents, baseboard heaters, and cold-air returns.
• Remove window air-conditioning units and store them. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter.
• Tour the outside of your house to make sure that soils around the foundation are properly graded. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of three feet out from the foundation walls.
• Watch for year-end close-out sales on lawn and garden equipment.
• Inspect storm windows for any signs of deterioration and make necessary repairs.

October

• Detach hoses in case of freezing temperatures. Remove all paints, caulks, and liquid materials from garage or garden sheds.
• Inspect weather-stripping around doors and windows and repair or replace if necessary.
• Set thermostats and automatic sprinklers for winter.
• Clean gutters after leaves have fallen. Make sure downspouts are in good repair.
• Check gauges on home fire extinguishers to ensure a full charge. Replace if necessary.

November

• When setting clocks back to Standard Time, change batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Inspect automatic garage door opener and lubricate according to the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured.
• Check for leaks around the washing machine. A prime suspect for leaks is the water supply hose washers. Inspect hoses and replace them if necessary.
• Clean dishwasher, trash compactor, and countertop appliances.

December

• Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the “test” button. The “reset” button should pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Press the reset button.
• Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for moisture and other signs of leaks. Carefully inspect pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.
• Review the family fire escape plan with every household member.
• Unpack and test all electrical holiday decorations. Repair or discard any that do not function properly.
• Watch for sales on tools before and after the holiday season.

So, that’s a month-by-month breakdown of home maintenance practices. We hope this detailed guide to home maintenance was helpful!

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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When you eventually see the hidden charges, these ads seem downright dishonest. The old adage, “You get what you pay for,” has never been truer.

As an HVAC service specialist for Kalos Services, Inc., I can tell you that a large percentage of service calls I run could have been avoided with preventative A/C maintenance. Many people don’t realize that even new units can develop maintenance issues after a relatively short period of time. Are your refrigerant levels where they should be? Units that are as little as a few ounces undercharged are going to run less efficiently than a system with proper refrigerant levels.

Prevent Problems with Regular Preventative A/C Maintenance

Amperage checks on fan motors and the compressor can give a trained technician an idea of the condition of these parts. Often, the compressor or fan motors will begin drawing more amps than what they are designed for. Of course, that’s not always the case, but the amperage is still something an honest technician will check.

High amperage could indicate something minor, such as a failing capacitor or dirty coil. However, it could also indicate something major, such as component failure. Either way, knowing this and taking care of it ahead of time during a maintenance procedure will result in less hassle and be more cost-effective than waking up on a hot summer night because the A/C has stopped working.

Find Small Issues Before They Can Ruin Your Day

By far, one of the leading causes of service calls is a backed-up drain line. We often install systems with a float switch to prevent flooding. By design, when the drain line backs up, water then goes to a separate float reservoir. As it fills, it trips a low voltage switch, thus interrupting any call for cooling. A working float switch does a great job of preventing any water damage in the home, but also means your A/C will not be working until the drain line is cleared. Drain cleaning is just one of the many procedures we do during our preventative AC maintenance. Follow this link to see what we consider the 8 Essentials to Every Preventative A/C Maintenance.

Call us today for more information on our maintenance agreements. We can schedule a maintenance procedure on your air conditioner today.

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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The demand for duct cleaning is something that has been on the rise over the last 10 years in the HVAC industry. It has grown from a very small niche business to a large and profitable industry. This growth has raised many questions.

Before we get started, allow me to establish my experience. I have been in the HVAC industry for over 15 years. In that time, I have never personally performed a duct cleaning, but I have been back to multiple HVAC service calls after duct cleanings. I personally have no issue with the duct cleaning industry as a whole; I simply have concerns with the common practices I have observed and customers’ expectations in relation to the outcome.

First, we must establish that the vast majority of residential and light commercial duct systems installed in Florida are flex and board systems. That means that the bulk of the air flows through flexible insulated tubes with a thin plastic inner liner. The remainder of the duct system is constructed of fiberglass board that is formed into boxes and triangle shapes that act as the main lines and distribution boxes. Second, we must state clearly that almost anything can be cleaned if enough time and resources are applied; this is as true of ducting as any other surface.

The real questions are:

1. Is duct cleaning effective at consistently providing cleaner air?
2. Are the practices consistently applied that produce a good result?
3. Is the cost of properly cleaning the ducts vs. replacing them represent a real value?

Is duct cleaning effective at consistently providing cleaner air?

A report produced in 1997 by the EPA states that duct cleaning has not been proven to produce cleaner indoor air. The EPA has consistently stood behind this stance, and this applies to all types of ducts. It stands to reason, in my opinion, that cleaning metal or metal-lined ducts would be effective.

There are many before and after representations of what duct cleaning can and has done for metal ducts. However, in all ducts, cleaning can often dislodge matter that may then re-enter the airstream. That leaves the following question:

Unless we leave the ducts completely clean, has the practice of cleaning ducts been successful in reducing indoor air contaminants?

Are the practices consistently applied that produce a good result?

The NADCA (National Air Duct Cleaning Association) has very good training and application guidelines on the proper cleaning of most duct systems. If well-trained professionals consistently apply these practices with well-maintained and cleaned equipment, then we will yield the best outcome.

My experience has shown that many companies that provide duct cleaning services do not consistently or fully abide by NADCA standards. Failure to follow those standards can result in a poor outcome as well as possible damage. When damage does occur due to improper duct cleaning practices, contractors often conceal it. So, the property owner will be unaware that there is an issue.

Is the cost of properly cleaning the ducts vs. replacing them represent a real value?

Here is an excerpt from the NADCA website:

The Environmental Protection Agency says that duct cleaning services typically “ but not always“ range in cost from $450 to $1000 per heating and cooling system, depending on the services offered, the size of the system to be cleaned, system accessibility, climactic region, and level of contamination and type of duct material. Consumers should beware of air duct cleaning companies that making sweeping claims about the health benefits of duct cleaning such claims are unsubstantiated. Consumers should also beware of blow-and-go air duct cleaning companies. These companies often charge a nominal fee and do a poor job of cleaning the heating and cooling system. These companies may also persuade the consumer into unneeded services with and/or without their permission.

This excerpt makes it clear that proper duct cleaning does come at a price. In many cases, the cost of proper cleaning may not be cost-effective when compared with replacement. Of course, the decision to clean or replace also depends on the age, condition, type, and access to the duct system currently in place.

The Verdict

In summary, I would advise the following:

1. Only have ducts cleaned if it is necessary. In most cases, we can achieve cleaner air more easily and consistently through air filtration/purification.
2. If you are going to have ducts cleaned, make sure to use a NADCA-accredited professional. Check that contractor’s work against the NADCA checklist HERE.
3. If your ducts need cleaning, look at the comparable cost of replacement vs. cleaning.
4. Recognize that Florida duct systems are often not very conducive to proper cleaning, reducing your potential success rate.

Feel free to contact us with any further questions. We hope this was helpful!

– Bryan Orr, VP Service Kalos Services Inc. Licensed A/C Contractor CAC1814620

Resources mentioned in this article can be found: EPA.Gov, NAIMA.Org, and Angie’s List. You can also check out these videos of news teams exposing the potential scams that can come with duct cleaning:

The post The Dirty Truth About Duct Cleaning appeared first on Kalos Services.

• Replace air filters regularly – A dirty air filter can reduce the efficiency of your A/C system in the short term and long term. Filthy air filters become serious issues when they result in dirty coils and ducts.
• Improve attic and wall insulation – We now have access to several excellent products, such as Icynene, that can insulate and seal your attic and walls. With proper insulation, you can dramatically reduce cooling and heating costs.
• Window coverings – You can install window coverings and leave them closed during the summer and at night to reduce cooling costs. You can open them during sunlight in the winter to reduce heating costs.
• Low heat appliances – Many newer appliance technologies reject less heat into the home. Inductive ranges and CFL/LED bulbs are common examples. In turn, you can expect lower cooling costs.
• Thermostat settings – Increasing the setting of the A/C thermostat in the summer and lowering it in the winter can reduce both heating and cooling costs. You may also install a programmable thermostat. You can program the temperatures to adjust themselves automatically to match your lifestyle.
• Water heater settings – Setting the thermostat on your water heater to a lower setting will increase the efficiency of the heater. Lower heat settings reduce your thermal losses in the tank and pipes. You may also install a timer on the water heater to keep it off during the night. You can expect modest savings from keeping your water heater off at night.
• A/C and appliance maintenance – Having your HVAC system and appliances checked and cleaned periodically can result in big savings in the long run. Dirty condenser and evaporator coils alone can result in major efficiency losses.
• Photocell controlled outdoor lighting – Using a photocell to turn your lights on and off may result in energy savings. That is especially true if you often forget to turn outdoor lights off during the day.
• Timer switches – Installing timers in place of switches can reduce the cost of items that may accidentally be left. Common items include bath fans, pool lights, garage lights, and attic lights. Intermatic makes several of these timer switches. You can directly install one of those timer switches in place of a switch.
• Ductless A/C – Installing high-efficiency ductless A/C in areas of intermittent or special use can save on energy. Ductless A/C may also improve comfort. These systems are super high-efficiency, from 16 to 25 SEER. They can also give you the flexibility to cool or heat only a specific space. That way, the temperatures of certain rooms won’t affect the entire home or business.

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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The post 10 Tips for Energy Savings in Your Home or Business appeared first on Kalos Services.

News stories like the one below illustrate the growing problem. A growing number of consumers are have seen their units, worth anywhere from 3 to 10 thousand dollars, destroyed with no choice but to buy a brand new system. It is a costly inconvenience but one that we can avoid. We have a solution below the video for how to secure your unit. You could potentially protect your A/C unit and thousands of dollars in replacement cost!

So, what can we do?

Are you concerned about the possibility of this happening at your residence or business? Don’t be! Protect your A/C unit by installing what’s called an Air Conditioner Cage. That product is a steel frame cage bolted to the ground around the outside condensing unit. It’s a great way to deter thieves from tampering with or ruining your costly heating and cooling equipment. While it won’t stop every thief, it will likely cause thieves enough trouble and hassle that they will move on to other homes that aren’t protected. In the end, it comes down to security and peace of mind.

If you’ve just recently purchased a new system or feel like you can’t afford to buy a new one in the event of a robbery, give this product some thought and protect your A/C unit today. Check out the sample picture below and call us if you are interested or have any questions about securing your assets and obtaining some more peace of mind!

Call 352-243-7088 for more information or visit www.KalosFlorida.com

The post How to Protect Your A/C Unit From Thieves appeared first on Kalos Services.

There are a lot of really great products on the market these days for saving energy. Sometimes, they are easy to use. Other times, they can be quite confusing. Thermostats can greatly reduce or increase your efficiency, and a knowledge of the best systems is an essential skill for the modern-day property manager. Today, we will discuss some of the challenges for property managers in regard to the thermostat. Certain types of thermostats can be great tools in your own personal home. However, they may not be effective in a rental or vacation home. The thermostat can help you manage your air conditioning system well. On the other hand, it is easy to misuse. You could waste energy and put your system through extra wear and tear.

Firstly, as a homeowner, you may be willing to take the time to program different temperatures for different times of the day on a thermostat. For a tenant or guest, this programming option will often lead to confusion, temperature complaints, and high power bills. People often set thermostats incorrectly, which adds to the issue. We regularly hear questions from property managers about features on thermostats that shut off the A/C when doors or windows are opened. In theory, that is a good idea. However, in practice, that idea often results in unneeded service calls. That feature decreases the long-term health of the system, and there’s still confusion about how it works.

With a feature that shuts off the A/C when a window opens, it’s very common for a  guest to call and complain that the house is warm and the manager asks if the doors and windows are closed. The guest says yes (which means they are closed now after being left open all day). When you dispatch a service technician, they will find nothing wrong. There’s also no way to prove if doors or windows were left open and caused the original problem.

Honeywell Focus Pro

We suggest a simple and reliable Honeywell Focus Pro thermostat for the rental properties you’re managing. Here are some reasons:

• 1. You can program internal settings to set the temperature to a maximum setting in heating and a minimum setting in cooling. (We usually suggest setting them to 75° in heat and 72° in cooling.)
• 2. The tenant now has the opportunity to have control over an easy-to-use system within a reasonable range of settings.
• 3. The Honeywell Focus Pro thermostat allows you to have a very reliable and energy-efficient solution to prevent high power consumption, system failure (freezing) and reduce guest complaints.

As always, you can call us directly at 352-243-7088 for further questions or requests for service.

We are happy to help you with questions or training at any time. Give us a call and we will try to connect you with someone who has the answer. We would also be happy to speak at any of your company/organizational meetings or give onsite classes on the subject of your choosing. It is our pleasure to help, and we look forward to helping you succeed.

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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In the State of Florida and around the country, you hear stories all the time about unsuspecting homeowners being the victims of theft or scams by an unlicensed contractor who works or says he is going to do work on their homes.

Before you let a contractor into your home or business, you must know for sure if that person is a licensed professional or not. Hiring a licensed contractor offers many additional protections to the property owner, especially regarding residential property. First of all, a contractor cannot obtain a license without a minimum amount of experience, and they must pass a business management test. The applicant also may be subjected to a criminal history background check and must not have any unresolved contracting complaints outstanding.

Five Minutes Can Save You One Huge Headache

So, here’s our five-minute process that could potentially protect you from a huge financial mistake.

*We will be using The State of Florida as our example. If you live in another state, the laws will be similar, but check your government’s regulations and laws for differences.

For the fastest results, just follow this link to arrive at the search page.

This is part of the MyFlorida.com Department of Business and Professional Regulation website. You can also access the license verification database from the main page. Navigate to http://www.myfloridalicense.com/DBPR/. You will see two yellow buttons beneath the search bar, and the one on the right says “Verify a License.” Select that button.

If you are checking a particular company or a certain individual, click on Search by Name, but there are other options available as Next, click the Search button at the right.

Now, you can enter your information to search for a particular person or company. Usually, you will find who you are looking for with their name and correct city.

You’ll see a list of licenses on the screen, and in our particular case, see the Air Conditioning, Electrical and General Contractors license we hold. (You can also click into the entry to further investigate the company – to ensure that everything is up to date with their Florida license and that you are looking at the right company.)

Contractor Check Complete

There you go! Though this process won’t completely protect you from incompetence, it will at least protect you from scammers. This process can be a great resource when you’re doing business with anyone you have not properly vetted or without solid referrals. Check out websites like Angi or the Better Business Bureau for reviews on how that company does business. You can also see if their customers are pleased with them!

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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At Kalos Services, we have worked with both short-term and long-term rental managers for over 8 years. We know how hard you work and how difficult your job can be. Over the years of working on air conditioning systems, pool heaters, and electrical applications, we have come up with some ideas and guidelines that we hope will help you out.

Today, we will discuss the different types of pool heaters. We will also share some tips to make managing your equipment a bit easier.

A pool is becoming a staple of what guests desire in a property they are considering for a short-term vacation rental home. We’ve found that pool heaters can be a great added feature when your guest is closing a booking on a home. Conversely, when there is an issue with the pool heating, you will get a lot of guest complaints. Hopefully, the information below will help you avoid that, keep your customers happy, and get great reviews and repeat business from them!

Types of Pool Heaters

There are typically two types of pool heaters a short-term property manager will want to look into: gas pool heaters and pool heat pumps.

Gas pool heaters make for very nice warm water, which means you will get fewer cold pool complaints. Unfortunately, gas pool heaters are more expensive to operate, and they generally begin to have significant corrosion after only 5 years or so. Gas pool heaters do not cost as much to replace, but they also do not come with very long warranties.

Pool heat pumps are much more cost-effective to run but do not get the water hot as quickly. Pool heat pumps also cost much more to install, but they usually have warranties of 5 years or more. Generally speaking, pool heat pumps will last 8-12 years before they experience a major failure.

It is unlikely that most pool heat pumps (electric) will maintain the pools at 85+ degrees during days where the low temperatures drop to near 40 or below. That inconvenience can be even worse on days where the high temperature does not go above 60 degrees.

Tips for Getting the Most Out of Your Heater

1. Turn your pool heater on several days in advance to make sure the pool is up to temperature before the cold snap. If you wait until it is cold outside to turn on a heater, it may never catch up until the cold period ends; this is due to the way the heaters are sized, and some heaters will do better than others.

2. Increase the pump run time before the cold weather. We recommend setting the run time from 8 AM to 8 PM.

3. Have the guests cover the pool at night. If you can get them to cover the pool, it will GREATLY assist in the pool temperature and power usage.

4. Do not run a heat pump overnight on a cold night. Many pool heat pumps will ice over and require manual defrost if you do this.

5. Take care of issues ahead of time by scheduling annual maintenance on the pool heater. Catch small issues before they become larger ones, monitor trends, and improve your guest’s experience by being prepared. You can save yourself money, time, and grief by doing this, even if it feels unnecessary at the time.

As with everything, the temperature that a pool can maintain is directly related to the size of the pool and the capacity of the heater. Every location will also be different. Check out our Pool Heating Services page for more information!

We are happy to help you with questions or training at any time. If you give us a call, we will try to connect you with someone who has the answer. We would also be happy to speak at any of your company/organizational meetings or give onsite classes on the subject of your choosing. It is our pleasure to help, and we look forward to helping you succeed.

All the best,

Bryan Orr – Co-Founder Kalos Services Inc.

CFVRMA Associate Member

Do you have questions? We can help! Fill out the form below:

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