Unfortunately, buildings contain many harmful particulates. Most of us probably aren’t aware of what’s really in the “dust” inside our homes and what we produce when we cook, clean, do laundry, or merely exist inside a house. Many of the particulates that probably come to mind, including pollen and pet dander, can aggravate our immune systems but are usually too large to get into the bloodstream and make us very sick. However, many more particulates, including viruses and bacteria, are small enough to get deep inside our respiratory tracts, enter the bloodstream, and harm us.

The HVAC system is a key piece that can make our homes healthier and manage indoor pollution. However, we first need to understand what’s in our air, how it gets there, and how it affects our bodies.

WHAT REALLY IS DUST?

I think most of us have a pretty good idea of what “dust” is. We see it as a film of dry particles that forms on objects that haven’t been touched in a long time.

That’s dust that has settled. Before dust settles, it’s suspended in the air and is often made up of particulates that we can’t see. Many of those particulates are dead skin cells; the average person sheds about 7 MILLION dead skin cells per hour! Other biological materials include dust mites, pollen, pet dander, decomposed insects, and spores.

All of those sound pretty gross and could make us cough and sneeze, but they’re not exactly unexpected. However, dust can also contain harmful chemicals and heavy metals.

Tobacco smoke residue, pesticides, plastic, fiberglass, and even lead can accumulate in dust! I don’t think anybody wants to breathe those in (or at least deal with the health complications that may result).

Now, some of those particulates make a lot of sense; if you smoke cigarettes and live in a house with pets and plants and regularly use cleaners and pesticides, you can expect those things’ respective particulates to show up in dust.  But what about the construction materials and spores?

INFILTRATION

When we think about where our air comes from, we’d like to think that it’s been filtered through the A/C system and delivered via vents. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. The photo above shows the “boot” around a supply air vent, which is where conditioned air enters your home from the duct system. The large gap all the way around is a path for attic air to get into the home. The dust and spores from the attic mixed with condensation and became a moldy mess.

If you have gaps and cracks in your home, especially around vents, conduits, and recessed lighting, your house can draw in nasty, unconditioned air from the outdoors or the attic.

We may think that range hoods or bath fans are good for exhausting air pollutants from cooking, washing, cleaning, and other human activity, but they’re actually a double-edged sword. While those forms of ventilation will exhaust some pollutants, they pull the house under negative pressure. To replace the exhausted air, the house has to draw in air through gaps in the structure (also known as the “building envelope”). That air is likely coming in through gaps and cracks in the envelope. The HVAC system can’t filter or control that air, so all of the particulates infiltrate the home unregulated.

The air that comes in could be from the outside, which may contain pollen and residue from outdoor activities (like burning leaves). Even worse, that air could be coming from the attic, which contains lots of dust and could even contain bacteria and fungal spores.

WHY MANAGE INDOOR AIR POLLUTION?

It’s easy to say: “Don’t do [X]! It’s bad for your health!” So far, I’ve been pretty broad about the health concerns associated with indoor pollutants. However, there are some specific risks that come from spending a lot of time indoors and inhaling harmful particulates.

Those risks come down to particle size and the nature of those particles.

Particulate size matters

Larger particulates like pollen are unlikely to make it into the bloodstream; they will get caught somewhere in your nose, mouth, or upper respiratory tract. These large particulates can cause allergies and trigger an immune system response, but they are unlikely to cause significant damage to your internal organs. As far as sizing goes, these particulates are called PM 10, which indicates that they are 10 microns in diameter. (By comparison, a human hair is anywhere from 50-75 microns wide.)

Particulates get a lot more dangerous when they get down to PM 2.5 or smaller. These particulates are small enough to enter the small sacs in your lungs (called alveoli) and get absorbed into the bloodstream. Combustion materials, including carbon monoxide gas and smoke, fall under the PM 2.5 category. Heavy metals and mold spores also happen to fall into that category. Bacteria and viruses can be even smaller, with bacteria typically being between 0.5 and 2 microns in diameter, and viruses tend to be around 0.3 microns. The SARS-CoV-2 virus that causes COVID-19 is only between 0.06 and 0.14 microns wide.

Biological pollutants

Viruses, fungi, and bacteria are the three main biological pollutants that can make us sick. They can all be smaller than 2.5 microns and are invisible to the naked eye. However, they work in slightly different ways.

Viruses are very small and aren’t actually alive, per se. They can’t reproduce on their own or grow on surfaces, but they insert their DNA into our cells, and the infected cells continue to go through natural cell division with the viral genetic material. Those bad copies of cells are what make us sick. Because viruses aren’t “alive,” we can’t “kill” them. Soap and cleaners can deactivate viral proteins on surfaces, but that doesn’t help us address viruses in the air. Filtering the air with high-quality media or HEPA filters helps a bit, and diluting the air by bringing in some filtered fresh air helps, too.

Unlike viruses, bacteria and fungi are alive and can reproduce on surfaces and inside your body. Even though individual bacteria and spores are nearly impossible to see, you might still be able to detect them. Bacteria and fungi can cause smelly odors in your home, and fungi can grow into visible patches of mold. Once they get inside your body via your nose and mouth, bacteria and fungi cause infections like pneumonia.

Since bacteria and fungi grow on surfaces, some IAQ products like UV lights can kill them on the surface of your equipment. However, UV lights can only kill the microbes that they shine on, and they’re not effective at killing microbes in the airstream.

Chemical pollutants

Chemical pollutants include organic compounds, metals, and products of combustion (fuel burning).

One of the deadliest indoor pollutants is carbon monoxide (CO), which results from the incomplete burning of fuel in gas, oil, or wood-burning appliances. If you have a gas range, fireplace, water heater, or furnace, then you would be wise to keep carbon monoxide on your radar. CO poisoning can cause flu-like symptoms and even death in large amounts. A low-level CO monitor helps you keep track of carbon monoxide near appliances and can help you catch a problem with your equipment before anyone gets sick.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) isn’t quite as infamous as carbon monoxide; it’s what all animals exhale. However, large amounts of CO2 can also cause occupants to feel fatigued or even sick. You may consider investing in a CO2 monitor if you live in a home with lots of people or animals that stay indoors for extended periods.

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs), especially formaldehyde, are gases that are released from household objects over time. Many of those VOCs are also known carcinogens; taking steps to manage these particulates reduces your risk of developing cancer. Cleaners, paints, flooring, and furniture are just a handful of objects that can attribute their odors to VOCs; the chemical smell of a new couch or a fresh coat of paint comes from VOCs. Even the nice “new car” smell comes from VOCs given off by the upholstery!

Smoking indoors also introduces many pollutants into the home. Formaldehyde, the VOC described above, is also a byproduct of tobacco smoke. However, according to the American Cancer Society, tobacco smoke contains other byproducts that may cause cancer, including arsenic, benzene, and even lead. So, avoiding smoking indoors can keep you, your family, and your pets a lot safer inside your home.

A THREEFOLD SOLUTION

As with most problems, there isn’t a simple fix or method for managing indoor pollution. However, the trio of proper construction, regular maintenance, and healthy habits can make your home so much safer.

Proper construction

Thoughtful construction in the first place is a huge help. Plumbers and electricians need to seal the spaces around pipes, wires, or conduits; otherwise, nasty attic air could seep through those openings and travel through the walls. It’s also best to seal the cracks around windows, vents, and recessed lighting as a best practice. On the HVAC side, the duct installer needs to be sure that the connections are airtight; duct leakage, especially around collars and vents, is another source of infiltration.

HVAC contractors can also install ventilating dehumidifiers, which can dehumidify the air AND bring in some fresh air through a dedicated return path. The air from the outside passes through filters and gets dehumidified, so you don’t have to worry about mixing low-quality air into your conditioned air.

Regular HVAC maintenance

Regular HVAC maintenance is also a key to managing indoor pollution. Some good maintenance procedures include replacing filters, checking duct connection tightness, and cleaning the coils. If duct connections become too loose, an air gap could result. That air gap causes indoor pressure to change and could suck in unconditioned air or exhaust conditioned air.

If you replace your filters frequently enough and have a maintenance agreement with an HVAC company, you can also expect your equipment to be more energy-efficient and last longer.

Healthy habits

The arguably most important piece of the puzzle is the adoption of healthy habits. Avoiding smoking indoors prevents tobacco residue and its byproducts from decreasing the air quality. Frequent filter replacement in homes with pets or plants is also a good habit. Safe cleaner storage is another huge piece; if you can, store chemical-based cleaners outside the home (such as in a shed).

Vacuuming floors with a high-quality bagged vacuum cleaner can help out a lot, too. The bags ensure that the dust and dirt stay trapped inside the vacuum cleaner. Moreover, bags allow for safer disposal.

All of this is just to say that it’s important to manage indoor pollution. While some IAQ products like UV bulbs can help, maintaining a healthy home requires a multifaceted approach. You can keep yourself from getting sick from airborne pathogens and chemicals if you have a tight, well-maintained home and adopt healthy indoor living habits.

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If you have a gas furnace, range, or fireplace, then you may be at risk of carbon monoxide exposure. Carbon monoxide, also called CO, is a dangerous vapor that displaces oxygen. Most of CO’s danger comes from the fact that it’s colorless and odorless, meaning that you can’t detect it before you start feeling sick from it.

CO results when combustion appliances (like gas furnaces and ranges) fail to burn the fuel completely. The normal products of complete combustion are carbon dioxide (CO2) and water. However, a malfunction of the equipment may cause incomplete combustion to occur and CO to appear in your home.

This article will cover potential sources of carbon monoxide exposure and teach you how to protect yourself from CO today.

COMBUSTION

“Combustion” is the process of burning something.

In order for something to burn, there must be heat, fuel, and oxygen. We call that combination of objects the “combustion triangle.” Without all three, burning will not occur; that’s why you can use a fire blanket to extinguish the fire by cutting off the oxygen supply. Alternatively, wood in a room filled with oxygen won’t catch fire if there isn’t a heat source, and very high temperatures can’t cause a fire without wood, butane, natural gas, or any other fuel source.

A furnace provides an environment where all three are present: natural gas/oil/wood (fuel), ignition (heat), and air (oxygen). The same can be said of your fireplace or range. There will be combustion whether your fuel source is natural gas, wood, coal, or oil.

CHARACTERISTICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE

As stated earlier, carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas. It is also tasteless, so it is unable to be detected by our senses. (We may be able to feel the effects of CO poisoning, but we can’t detect the gas itself.)

Carbon monoxide also mixes very well with the oxygen in the air. It doesn’t rise (like natural gas) or sink (like carbon dioxide). In addition, CO follows the flow of air in a structure, so it behaves the same way as the air we breathe. CO is poisonous because it displaces oxygen in our bloodstream; it behaves just like oxygen, and our bodies can’t tell the difference.

Our lungs take in carbon monoxide, and it goes into the bloodstream from there. The heart pumps that oxygen-poor blood to the rest of the body, and our internal organs can’t get the oxygen they need because CO is in the blood instead. In a sense, our bodies end up suffocating from the inside out.

SYMPTOMS OF CARBON MONOXIDE EXPOSURE

Ideally, we would all be able to recognize CO in the home before we start getting sick from it. However, we can prevent CO deaths by recognizing the symptoms of CO exposure before anybody succumbs to CO poisoning. (Note: People who are sleeping or intoxicated may die before they can recognize the symptoms of CO poisoning.)

When you’re inside a building often or for long periods, watch out for the following symptoms:

• Persistent headaches
• Dizziness
• Blurred vision
• Nausea
• Fatigue or drowsiness
• Shortness of breath
• Confusion
• Feeling ill or tired at home but feeling fine outside the building

You can really begin to suspect a CO problem if you feel sick inside your home but feel fine when you’re outdoors. That symptom pattern indicates that something inside the home may be making you sick, and it’s worth asking a professional to investigate the source of your sickness.

It’s also worth noting that these symptoms can occur whenever oxygen is displaced. If you were to fill a room with carbon dioxide and drive out most of the oxygen, you could experience the symptoms listed above. Headaches and other neurological conditions are among the most common symptoms because your brain is not getting the oxygen it needs.

POSSIBLE CARBON MONOXIDE SOURCES IN YOUR HOME

Even if your home doesn’t use gas at all, such as if you use a heat pump and an electric range, you may still have carbon monoxide risks in your home.

Some of the most common sources of carbon monoxide include:

• Fuel-burning furnaces and water heaters
• Gas ranges and ovens
• Vehicle emissions (especially in garages)
• Fireplaces
• Tobacco smoke
• Fuel-burning space heaters
• Fuel-burning boilers

Sadly, there are cases where remote car starters have caused vehicles to start by themselves in closed garages. In cases when the problem wasn’t caught, the CO from the running vehicles ended up killing occupants within the home. That is a relatively uncommon occurrence, but it is still a possibility due to the risk of keeping CO-producing vehicles indoors with a means of starting automatically.

PROTECTING YOURSELF AGAINST CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING

To protect yourself from carbon monoxide poisoning, try to refrain from smoking or operating vehicles in enclosed spaces. You can also reduce your risk of carbon monoxide exposure by using portable grills, lawn equipment, and other fuel-consuming devices outside.

You can also buy a CO detector for your home (better yet, a low-level CO detector). That way, you will have an alarm that can detect the presence of CO even though your body cannot. Some smart thermostat extensions, like the Nest Protect, may also monitor CO and even send you texts or shut off gas appliances when a CO risk is detected. If you already have a CO monitor in your home, the CDC recommends replacing the batteries every six months to make sure it stays in top condition.

However, it may be a bit trickier to make sure your fuel-burning appliances don’t pose a CO risk. The best thing you can do is hire a professional to inspect your fuel-burning appliances yearly. These appliances include your furnace, fireplace, stove, and water heater. If you can safely access the flue of your combustion-burning appliances, you may consider checking it on occasion to make sure that it isn’t blocked (such as by a bird’s nest).

If you are considering getting a new HVAC system, we at Kalos would recommend looking into getting a heat pump instead of a gas furnace. Heat pumps are good at providing cool air in the summer and heat in the winter, and they don’t carry a CO risk! If you have a furnace system, we would be happy to replace it with a heat pump if you decide that it’s time for a system replacement. You can start the system replacement process online (or just receive an estimate) at https://www.kalosflorida.com/self-quote/ and select “Furnace-To-Heat-Pump Conversion.”

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Still, it can be a bit scary to think about what might happen if you shatter an old thermometer or CFL. You may also feel overwhelmed when thinking about disposing of those objects responsibly.

Fear no longer. We’re going to explain how to handle common household objects with mercury. We’ll cover what to do if an object breaks, proper disposal, and how your local HVAC contractor can replace and recycle your old mercury thermostat.

WHAT IS MERCURY?

Mercury is a naturally occurring element in our world. It’s Hg on the periodic table and has the atomic number 80. It can come in many forms, including vapor released from volcanoes. It’s also in the compound that makes up cinnabar, which was used in ancient lacquerware, dyes, and jewelry for its brilliant red color.

We’re primarily concerned with liquid mercury in thermostats and thermometers and the vapor form in fluorescent and UV lightbulbs. Both substances are toxic and can harm both humans and the environment.

In the case of household objects, we are referring to elemental mercury. The type you find in fish is methylmercury. Fish absorb methylmercury from water and the food they eat. We then absorb methylmercury from fish when we eat them. We rarely consume enough methylmercury to harm ourselves, but a mother who eats too much of it during pregnancy can cause her baby to develop neurological issues.

MERCURY POISONING

Mercury is a neurotoxin; it gets into your body and attacks tissues in your nervous system (brain, spinal cord, nerves). 

Mercury poisoning can occur either in the liquid or vapor state. The liquid form can be absorbed through our skin, and we can inhale the vapor form. Both cases can be potentially fatal. 

According to the EPA, symptoms of elemental mercury poisoning include:

• Tremors
• Headaches
• Insomnia (difficulty sleeping)
• Mood swings
• Lack of coordination
• Muscle weakness
• Decreased mental performance

One shattered CFL probably won’t give you mercury poisoning if you take the right precautions during cleanup and are a healthy adult. However, you can never be too careful when handling and disposing of household objects with mercury.

CLEANING UP BROKEN FLUORESCENT LAMPS

Compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) were a promising replacement for incandescent bulbs, especially in the mid-2000s. However, we’ve since realized that LEDs are a much better lighting option than CFLs because they are more efficient and last longer. 

At Kalos, we recommend that our customers use LED lights for long-term energy and cost savings, even if the cost is a bit higher up front. But if you’ve stocked up on CFLs and are still using them, you’ll benefit from knowing how to clean them up if they break:

1. If a CFL breaks, get all people and pets out of the room. 
2. Make sure the room is well-ventilated; the best thing you can do is open a window or door for at least 10 minutes. 
3. Turn off your central A/C system or furnace to prevent the contaminated air from circulating throughout the home.
4. Once the room has had some time to air out, clean up the shards and mercury powder. Sticky tape or wet paper towels can work wonders at picking up those tiny parts. (Do NOT vacuum the powder! You may end up spreading it or the mercury vapor.)
5. Put the remains in a sealable plastic bag or a jar with a metal lid.
6. Put the remains AND the cleaning materials in a sealed container for disposal. Keep them outside for the time being. If possible, also keep the house well-ventilated for a few hours.

Some districts allow you to dispose of CFL remains in your regular trash, but others require you to take them to a recycling facility. In Florida, we have recycling facilities for hazardous waste like mercury. Check with the appropriate authorities to dispose of the waste responsibly.

For detailed instructions and more information, please check out the EPA’s CFL cleanup guide.

CLEANING UP BROKEN MERCURY THERMOMETERS

Digital thermometers have severely reduced the risk of injury or death from mercury in thermometers. However, if you still use a mercury thermometer, here is how you can clean up the remains if you accidentally break yours:

1. Put on gloves.
2. Remove glass and other sharp objects. Place them on a paper towel and put them in a sealable bag. If required by your local government, label the bag with the contents.
3. Locate all of the mercury beads you can find. Use a piece of cardboard to gather them into little balls, being careful not to spread them uncontrollably. When you’ve finished, use a flashlight against the floor to confirm that you don’t have any more glistening spots of mercury lying around.
4. Use an eyedropper to suck up the large mercury beads. Squeeze the beads onto a damp paper towel. Put the paper towel in a sealable bag and label it as required by your local government. If you don’t have an eyedropper, use the cardboard to roll the mercury onto the paper towel or into the sealable bag.
5. Use sticky tape (or shaving cream and a paintbrush) to clean up the tiny beads. Dispose of the mercury and cleaning materials in a sealable bag. Label the bag according to the local authorities. Do NOT vacuum the mercury!
6. Put all cleaning materials and waste in a thick trash bag. Keep the bag outdoors and consult your local health department, fire department, or municipal waste authority for proper disposal.

For more information and a more detailed set of instructions, please check out the EPA’s guide to cleaning up mercury spills.

DISPOSING OF OLD THERMOSTATS

If you think it’s time to upgrade to a digital thermostat (or even a fancy smart thermostat), you may be wondering what to do with your old mercury thermostat. In Florida, it’s illegal to toss old mercury thermostats with normal solid waste. So, what are you going to do?

The answer is actually quite simple! 

Your HVAC contractor should be able to recycle your old thermostat whenever they install a new one. The EPA regulates mercury disposal in HVAC equipment, so the responsibility is on the contractor to dispose of them properly. Most A/C supply houses offer recycling services anyway.

So, we still use mercury in a lot of household objects. The widespread usage of it doesn’t make those appliances any less hazardous, but cleaning is usually straightforward and safe as long as you follow the EPA’s instructions and act with caution.

For more information on mercury in household objects, read more on the EPA’s website and the Florida Department of Environmental Protection’s website.

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The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) defines IAQ as the following:

The air quality within and around buildings and structures, especially as it relates to the health and comfort of building occupants. 

IAQ used to be almost strictly related to building science. However, improving IAQ has recently become a goal of HVAC technicians and installers. As a result, we can offer our customers more solutions to keep their homes comfortable than ever before. Most homes already have some IAQ strategies in place, but we’re going to give a comprehensive review of indoor air quality and explain how certain equipment and add-ons may (or may not) help you live in a cleaner, healthier home.

WHAT ARE THE VILLAINS OF IAQ?

Our homes are full of pollutants, whether we want to acknowledge that fact or not. Indoor air quality refers to the cleanliness of the air, so a home with higher indoor air quality has greater pollution control.

One of the most common pollutants in the home is a group of small particles called VOCs (volatile organic compounds). Almost every home has some sort of VOCs, whether those VOCs come from detergents, cleaners, paints, flooring, or furniture.

You may have heard of formaldehyde before. If you ever dissected small animals in biology class, that’s what they were likely embalmed with. Believe it or not, formaldehyde is present all throughout your home! Whether it’s in your finished wood flooring or your couch’s synthetic upholstery, formaldehyde is in your home and reducing your IAQ. Pretty gross, right?

Other common and potentially harmful pollutants include carbon dioxide (CO2), ozone (O3), viruses, bacteria, and viruses. Some homes may also struggle with moisture problems, pet dander, odors, dust, and pollen in their home. You probably won’t see most of these, but they can still make you uncomfortable or even sick. 

One of the most dangerous IAQ villains is carbon monoxide (CO), especially if you have gas appliances in your home. Gas heaters, stoves, and fireplaces can produce CO if they’re not burning the gas completely. Unfortunately, CO is colorless, odorless, and potentially fatal. Watch out for unexplained flu symptoms, headaches, and dizziness, as those could be symptoms of CO poisoning.

BASIC IAQ CONTROL STRATEGIES

Most homes already have some basic means of controlling IAQ through pressure differentials and ventilation. 

For example, occupants can displace moisture when cooking, showering, or using the bathroom by using a localized vent or fan. Most bathrooms have fans that help displace moisture from the room by pulling that room under negative pressure. Then, new air comes in from any openings in the space. You may notice that bath fans also help get rid of odors; that’s because odor-causing particles get trapped in moisture, which then gets sucked out of the room.

We also use filters to improve IAQ in our homes. Pretty much all homes with central A/C units have filters that you need to replace monthly (or maybe more frequently if you have pets or plants in your home). Filters are rated for effectiveness on the MERV scale, so filters with higher MERV ratings are more effective at trapping small particles.

Of course, MERV ratings aren’t the end-all-be-all of filter effectiveness. For a filter to work, it needs to be the correct size for your HVAC system. On top of that, it’s certainly possible to use a filter that’s too restrictive, which will negatively impact your system airflow.

Finally, humidity control can help you keep your home from feeling muggy and laden with moisture. Bacteria and fungi also tend to flourish in high-humidity environments. So, home humidity control will benefit the health of you and your families. Most properly sized HVAC systems help with humidity control. However, if your home still feels humid, you may want to consider installing a dehumidifier.

OTHER ACCESSORIES

In addition to the basic strategies we just covered, some homeowners opt to include other IAQ accessories. However, these accessories have specific purposes and potential drawbacks. Before looking to purchase any of these add-ons, you may want to learn more about each product and refer to THIS article about IAQ questions to ask your contractor.

HEPA Filtration

HEPA stands for high-efficiency particle arrestance. These filters meet a US Department of Energy (DOE) standard that specifies a capture rate of 99.97% of particles sized at 0.3 microns. In other words, they have a near-100% capture rate for very small particles. They can be even more effective for smaller particles. Extremely small particles (<0.3 microns) move erratically, so the filter has a high rate of catching them via diffusion, as you can see in the bottom right corner of the image above.

HEPA filters rose to popularity during the COVID-19 pandemic because they can catch SARS-CoV-2 viruses (0.1 microns in size). However, they are not a perfect solution for everyone.

Remember when we talked about restrictive filters? HEPA filters are VERY restrictive and may significantly reduce airflow if your A/C system isn’t designed to work with a HEPA filter. HEPA bypasses are a partial solution that sends some of the air through a HEPA filter, but the design is something you’ll need to discuss with a contractor.

To learn more about HEPA filters, check out THIS article we wrote about them.

UV Lights

You may have heard that sunlight kills bacteria and fungi. While that’s a simple way of describing what happens, the ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun can indeed kill bacteria and even deactivate viruses. So, if you put a UV light in an enclosed space, it will help kill bacteria and deactivate viruses on those surfaces.

However, UV lights don’t do much to purify the air flowing through your ducts. While UV lights can effectively kill bacterial and fungal spores on coil and blower surfaces in your air handler, they’re not very effective at neutralizing particles in the air.

Some homeowners may like the idea of having UV lights to keep their systems cleaner and free of buildup. Still, homeowners should know exactly what the benefits are before they decide to buy an IAQ accessory.

Oxidizers

We won’t get into the ultra-scientific parts explanations of oxidizers. You can read THIS HVAC School article if you’re interested in the details. Basically, oxidizers use unstable molecules to react with pollutants and organic matter in the air until those molecules stabilize.

Unfortunately, one of the most common oxidizing agents is ozone. Earlier, we mentioned that ozone is one of those “IAQ villains.” Ozone is very effective at breaking down odors, but it’s also excellent at breaking down the cells in our respiratory systems. If an oxidizer uses ozone, it may just do more harm than good, though everything is a calculated risk.

Some manufacturers have moved away from ozone and instead use ion-based oxidizers, including cold plasma and hydrogen peroxide. However, the jury is still out on the effectiveness of these oxidizers on a whole-home scale.

IAQ is becoming increasingly important for HVAC contractors. We are equipped to answer questions about IAQ, and we encourage our customers to be honest about their comfort levels in their homes. Remember: a good IAQ contractor caters their plans to your needs, answers questions honestly, and lets you know your options without pushing products you don’t need.

The post What is IAQ? appeared first on Kalos Services.

Yes, but refrigerating food is not quite that simple. 

Refrigerators may be easy to use, but food safety and quality depend on your storage practices. Your fridge can only keep your family safe and your food tasty if you pay special attention to how you store food inside it.

There’s a lot more to refrigerating food than sticking it in the fridge or freezer until you’re ready to cook or eat it. So, let’s look at the risks of improper food storage and see how we can get the most out of our refrigerators. 

FOOD POISONING CAUSES AND PREVENTION

This image shows a variety of Salmonella. These bacteria commonly cause food poisoning. (Source: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention)

“Food poisoning” is not a specific disease. Rather, it’s a basic label for diseases called “foodborne illnesses.” These are caused by food that has been contaminated by bacteria. Let’s look at a few common types.

According to the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA), Salmonella, E. coli, and C. botulinum commonly cause foodborne illness. Here’s a quick overview of what these bacteria can do to your body and how they enter it:

Salmonella causes an infection that is rarely deadly but still causes nasty stomach flu-like symptoms. Animal products such as meat and eggs are the most common sources of Salmonella, but Salmonella can also live on vegetables exposed to contaminated soil or water.

You may be familiar with E. coli from news stories about food recalls (often romaine lettuce). There are several E. coli strains, but the O157:H7 strain is a common cause of food recalls. The infection that results from E. coli food poisoning is rarely fatal, but stomach flu-like symptoms are common. Most E. coli outbreaks have been associated with raw or undercooked beef and leafy greens.

C. botulinum can cause a rare but fatal disease called botulism. According to Mayo Clinic, botulism disrupts nerve functioning. So, symptoms include facial weakness, blurred or double vision, and paralysis. The most common foods that may harbor C. botulinum are canned fruits and cured meats.

WHAT ABOUT MOLD?

We just got through a bunch of nasty stuff, but we haven’t said a single thing about mold yet. Molds are fungi, not bacteria, but most of us still consider mold to be a health risk. 

Believe it or not, mold isn’t likely to make you very sick. Some people are allergic to penicillin, and mold could clearly get them sick. However, moldy food won’t harm most people. Your food won’t taste very good, but you likely won’t get deathly ill. 

It’s still not a good idea to eat moldy food, even though you probably won’t die from it. Bacteria and other toxins may live on the mold, and those could make you sick. 

THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER REFRIGERATION

So, how do we avoid those nasty microorganisms from getting in our food and making us sick?

Refrigerating food stops the growth of microorganisms that cause foodborne illness. The cold temperatures may even deactivate some of those microbes. Therefore, the recommended maximum refrigeration temperature is 40° Fahrenheit (4° Celsius).

However, some bacteria and mold are resistant to 40°F temperatures. For example, listeria can grow on lunchmeats and unpasteurized milk products at 40°F. 

Freezing eliminates the risk of bacterial growth and food spoilage. Your freezer will inactivate all microbes if you set the temperature at or below 0°F (-18°C). (Note: Bacteria and mold can activate and contaminate food again upon thawing.)

Temperature is just one part of it, though. Air circulation is also vital to proper refrigeration.

Some of us pack all the refrigerated items in our fridges or freezers as tightly as possible. “Refrigerator Tetris” may be fun for some people, but it’s not a very safe practice. It’s difficult for your fridge to maintain a constant temperature when the air can’t circulate around all the food. The food needs a constant cold temperature to reduce the risk of microbial contamination.

FREEZING FOOD

As you know, freezing food deactivates microbes on your food. So, the real question is this: How long can food last in a freezer before spoiling?

You can store food in a freezer indefinitely. It won’t spoil or become contaminated. However, just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should.

There’s a reason why there are charts all over the internet with recommended freezer durations for certain foods. Food safety is not the issue. Food quality is. Some foods may smell or taste bad when left in the freezer for long periods, even though there isn’t a risk of bacterial or mold contamination. 

Some foods also don’t freeze well. You CANNOT freeze canned foods and shelled eggs at all. It’s also not a good idea to freeze cream sauces, mayonnaise, lettuce, and non-frozen dairy products. While frozen sour cream, cottage cheese, and other dairy products won’t hurt you, they separate when frozen. That messes up their texture and makes them taste bland. Lettuce can also get slimy and loses its fresh crunch when thawed.

So, freezers keep your food safe, but they may seriously reduce food quality. Food could get freezer burn, which is safe but unappetizing. Your food will also likely be dry upon reheating. As you can see, freezing will NOT guarantee quality. 

RECOMMENDED STORAGE TEMPERATURES

Storage temperatures vary among food categories. We’ve prepared a table of common food categories and their storage temperatures. (Sources: California Department of Education, Cornell University, and New York National Guard Food Service.)

HUMIDITY

Did you notice that I split the produce into categories? Cornell University divides fruits and vegetables into four storage groups based on temperature and humidity needs. So, I used that same classification here. 

It’s reasonable to expect that sweet potatoes would require less humidity than a head of lettuce. You also have to consider that when you store fresh food. It’s not just with produce either; relative humidity affects the quality of fresh meat as well. Meat kept in dry conditions could lose weight. Drier meat doesn’t lose its nutritional value, but it won’t taste as good.

Your fridge may have special compartments for certain foods. These drawers have more humidity control than the rest of your fridge and keep produce from overripening or wilting. That’s why many people put fruits and veggies in the drawers.

Here is a relative humidity chart for fresh foods. (Sources: Cornell University and the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.)

Cornell University’s Cooperative Extension has a thorough resource for vegetable storage. You can access it HERE for more detailed temperature and humidity information on specific fruits and vegetables.

There are some excellent charts out there for food storage best practices. We hope you’ll use them as a guide to refrigerating food to keep your families safe and satisfied. As I said earlier, Cornell Cooperative Extension’s vegetable storage guide is a good place to start. Other resources include the New York National Guard’s Food Service storage guide and the University of Georgia’s Cooperative Extension consumer’s guide.

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