The wet stains around your vents are caused by condensation, which is caused by high humidity in your home or attic. Then, that’s when those dark spots start appearing. In this article, we will talk about what could be causing your issue, look at some things you could do to fix the problem, and discuss when it might be time to call in a professional.

There are 2 common sources of this potentially damaging and possibly dangerous moisture problem.

One is called duct sweat, and it happens in the attic.

The other is vent sweat, and it happens in the living space. 

So what is causing this problem anyway?

Quite simply, the answer is high humidity. 

Humidity refers to water vapor in the air. It’s all around us and is something that can and must be managed. Too much humidity can leave a home feeling muggy and cause surfaces to feel moist or even wet. 

It is also the cause of sweaty ducts and vents. In excess, water vapor will condense to liquid water and attach itself to cold surfaces. Think of an ice-cold bottle of your favorite beverage in the hot summer air. 

We’ve all seen this before. You take an ice-cold bottle out of the cooler, pop the top, and within moments, water droplets begin to form on the surface of the bottle. The water droplets aren’t coming from the inside of the bottle. They are actually being pulled from the hot humid air in a process called condensation. The same thing is happening with your A/C unit. 

Picture the ductwork of your A/C unit traveling through the intensely hot environment of your attic. This ductwork has cold air blowing through it—just like the cold liquid in the bottle. If the hot air contains a lot of water vapor, condensation will begin to form on the surface of your ductwork. It happens a lot in areas where insulation might be compromised or areas where cold metal surfaces could be exposed, like the vent boot.

The vent boot is the connection point between the vent and the attic duct. This boot is usually made from galvanized metal, and if left exposed in a hot, humid attic, it will most definitely condense moisture from the air. These droplets will then drip onto the home’s ceiling drywall. Over time, it will develop into the black stains we are trying to avoid. 

On the other side of this connection is the supply vents. These vents are usually made from galvanized metal (although there are some plastic options available), and they are responsible for dispersing the cold, conditioned air throughout the home. Because cold air is coming through them, they will have a very cold surface temperature. So, just as that cold bottle in the summer air drips with condensation, so too will these supply vents if humidity conditions in the home aren’t moderated. 

So, why is this happening in your home all of a sudden?

Your vents could have stains or dark spots around them for a couple of reasons. Some are simple fixes, some are not so simple, but usually, the root cause can be traced back to a change in your building’s shell. 

Let’s start with a few questions.

• When did you notice this issue?
• Can you connect the issue to any changes to your home?
  • Have you installed a new higher-volume kitchen exhaust hood?
  • Has something like a doggy door been installed?
  • Have you noticed that the weather stripping around doors and windows has become brittle and not sealing well?

Some changes to your home can allow hot, humid air to enter your home. Things like high-volume kitchen exhaust hoods can actually suck the air out of your kitchen so effectively that it can actually pull air from the outside through gaps and leaks around windows and doors. Or even worse, it could draw in attic air from around vents and recessed lighting. Hot, humid air getting into your home through an unwanted path is called infiltration.

You may not have considered it, but that new doggy door can also let in huge amounts of unwanted outside air.

How do you fix infiltration issues?

We can fix infiltration issues by sealing up those gaps and cracks and replacing weather stripping. Closed-cell spray foam and caulking are your best friends when it comes to sealing. Check around window and door frames or any other area that may be allowing outside air to get into the living space and seal these places. 

Consider pulling your supply vents down and sealing the cracks around the duct boot to prevent attic air from seeping into the home. Check any other areas that provide a path to the attic. Recessed lights and attic access doors are pretty common problem areas that you may need to address. 

Other living space considerations

Consider lifestyle changes as well. Are you creating an increase in humidity?  

• Are you cooking much more than usual (boiling water)?
• Are you taking longer hotter showers in a bathroom that has no exhaust?
• Have you installed a dishwasher in a home that has never had one before? 
• Are you leaving doors or windows open?
• Are there kids running in and out from the pool deck?
• Is your clothes dryer inside of the house? If so, have you checked the exhaust vent pipe?

These are all possible sources of humidity.

Those were some ideas about interior conditions, now how about the attic? 

Ask yourself if something has changed about my attic that has affected the dew point. The dew point is the temperature at which air must be cooled to reach a relative humidity (RH) of 100% and become saturated with water vapor. This means that the air can no longer hold water in its gas form and will condense into its liquid state. 

Sometimes, innocent upgrades can have unintended consequences. For instance, adding a radiant barrier to your attic will keep it cooler—and quite possibly bring it below the dew point. This condition change could lead to sweaty ducts. 

Adding additional attic ventilation will not only keep your attic cooler and lower the dew point but also keep a continuous supply of humid air moving over the ductwork. This will create an almost endless supply of condensation, which can lead to serious moisture-related damages. 

If neither of these has happened, you may simply be dealing with air loss from the ductwork itself. Broken or torn ducts can leak conditioned air into the attic space. This scenario is likely to cause moisture to form throughout the attic, dampening the insulation, wood decking, and framing. This moisture can cause water damage and a bad smell.

Fixes? 

Ultimately, the goal is humidity control. 

50% relative humidity is the sweet spot, as shown in the chart. We typically want to keep the air somewhere between 30 and 60% relative humidity to prevent unhealthy air conditions. 

However, there is not a perfect one-size-fits-all solution to controlling humidity. Each house and its occupants are unique in the way they affect humidity and air conditions. Some people like to set their thermostat so low that you could hang meat while others are frequently in and out of doors. All of these characteristics have to be taken into consideration when trying to maintain proper humidity levels. 

Dehumidification Strategies and Tactics

There are a few strategies that you can use to combat high humidity in your home. The first is to consider the airflow of your existing HVAC unit. 

Contrary to popular belief, high airflow will not solve your humidity issues. Lowering your airflow will cause your unit to run longer, which allows the system to dehumidify the air. As the warmer return air passes over the cold air conditioner coils, some of the water vapor naturally comes out of the air as it condenses on the aluminum fins of the coil. It then drips down into the condensate pan and out of your house via the drain. 

Another thing to consider is installing a whole-home dehumidifier. Whole-home dehumidifiers have come a long way in recent years, making them an attractive option for many homeowners. Take, for instance, the Sante Fe Ultra 120.

This unit will require professional installation, but when installed correctly, it can remove around 15 gallons of water per day. It will improve air quality and comfort while solving moisture issues. 

Apart from relying on your HVAC unit or a dehumidifier to remove humidity from the air, you may also consider hiring a contractor to find out how much air leakage is happening in your home. Then, you can consider sealing gaps and cracks to prevent hot, humid air from getting into your home.

Conclusion

Moisture stains and dark spots around your vents have natural causes, but they should not be happening. The first step to dealing with them is to look at any possible home and lifestyle changes; even something as seemingly unrelated as upgrading the kitchen exhaust or leaving a patio door open can bring moisture into your home and cause your vents to sweat. Then, you’ll have a better idea of changes you can make or the people you need to call.

Kalos can seal around vents and install dehumidifiers. If you want someone to investigate the leakage in your home and seal the building shell, you may consider reaching out to blower door and spray foam contractors. If you’ve had issues with moisture, stains, or dark spots around vents, give us a call anytime, and we can send someone out to see what’s going on!

The post Stains Around A/C Vents appeared first on Kalos Services.

Since the early 20th century, hurricanes have caused $450 billion in damage in Florida. Hurricane Ian in 2022 was responsible for just under $110 billion and was the costliest natural disaster in Florida history. Many homes have been destroyed due to wind damage and flooding brought by hurricanes and tropical storms. Power outages and surges are also issues many Floridians face during tropical cyclones. Your outdoor HVAC unit is especially prone to damage because of its location and reliance on electricity.

However, you can reduce the risk of damage and come out the other side of a hurricane without needing to call a contractor to make repairs! Here are some tips to help you protect your HVAC unit and handle hurricane season like a pro:

1. Make sure your outdoor HVAC unit is secured

Tropical storms and hurricanes bring a lot of wind. You don’t want to underestimate the strength of the wind; it can blow fences down and destroy homes, and your outdoor A/C unit might also be ripe for the picking if it isn’t tied down.

At Kalos, we use L brackets that drill into the concrete pad and the condensing unit. We also ensure that the concrete pad meets code requirements whenever we install a new outdoor unit.

Local codes vary, but the ones in our service area require outdoor condensing units to have at least four tie-downs—one on each side of the unit—drilled into a concrete pad that also meets code requirements. Lightweight concrete pads may not meet code standards and increase the chances of your outdoor HVAC unit being damaged.

2. Clear all debris from your yard before the storm

The high winds of tropical storms and hurricanes can turn backyard staples into projectiles. Grills, sports equipment, potted plants, lawn chairs, trash bins, and yard ornaments can all damage cars, windows, and even your HVAC unit if they become airborne.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast. If you see reports of a tropical storm or hurricane that might affect your area, then put all of those items away and secure them indoors well before the storm arrives. Have a plan for your playsets and outdoor trampolines as well.

3. Trim trees and shrubs during hurricane season

While trees and shrubs are far less likely to be picked up and thrown around than sports equipment or lawn chairs, we also need to think about them. Storms can also damage trees and shrubs, which can then harm property or people. 

Loose tree branches can fall and pose a threat to roofing, cars, and human life. While smaller bushes don’t have anywhere near the same risk that trees have, it may still be a good idea to trim bushes near your A/C unit and dispose of the clippings. The leaves can get inside the unit and make it harder for the unit to transfer heat.

We recommend trimming nearby bushes anyway to make sure your unit can discharge air most effectively. This practice will also reduce the likelihood (or at least the amount) of leaves getting into your outdoor unit. Leaves and other debris make it harder for the outdoor unit to give off heat, and your A/C unit may not cool as well as it should, even when we don’t have to worry about extreme weather.

4. If you are in a flood zone or other low-lying area, ask your contractor about raising your A/C unit

Most of our Central Florida service area is not located in a flood zone. The same can’t be said for the rest of Florida, though.

HVAC systems have a lot of electrical parts and are supposed to have waterproof conduits to protect things like wires. Because of that, HVAC units can usually withstand Florida’s heavy summer rains without a problem. Being submerged in standing water is another story. 

Flood damage to HVAC units is very common in low-lying coastal areas. This type of damage to the outdoor HVAC unit can cause electrical parts to fail and even pose a fire hazard.

The best way to prevent flood damage to your HVAC unit is to have the unit above the water. Some contractors can install outdoor units on elevated platforms. Coastal areas and homes near bodies of water that may overflow are especially prone to flood damage, and raising the outdoor unit can be a smart move in those areas.

This option isn’t something most homeowners can do on their own. HVAC units have copper tubes that connect the indoor and outdoor units, and a contractor will need to reroute these using special tools and techniques.

5. Get a surge protector

Power outages are extremely common in hurricanes, as the wind can knock down power lines or trees that interfere with electrical service. Restoring power may cause a surge at first, which can damage electrical appliances.

Many ductless A/C units use control boards that are very sensitive to high voltage. Most people think of lightning strikes frying the electrical parts, but even constant slightly high voltage from the power company can cause parts to fail. 

We usually recommend installing a surge protector any time you have one of those systems. However, protecting your unit is even more important during hurricane season, when power surges are likely to occur. While all HVAC systems can benefit from surge suppression, it’s especially helpful for ductless systems and high-efficiency systems with multiple fan speeds. 

Even outside of hurricane season, you might consider getting a constant overvoltage monitor and a buck-boost transformer. Constant overvoltage monitors look at the voltage coming into your system from the power plant and can shut the unit down when the voltage is too high. We usually offer to install an ICM493, which also comes with surge protection, for this purpose. 

When we can confirm that overvoltage from the power company is the cause, we can install a buck-boost transformer to reduce the voltage. Buck-boost transformers can either decrease or increase the line voltage (buck = decrease, boost = increase). We can install one of these and set it to “buck” the voltage and prevent higher line voltages from causing failures. However, these transformers will not work against power surges.

Hurricane season is all about forethought. Just as you need to stock up on clean drinking water, non-perishables, and flashlights for hurricane season, you need to protect your outdoor HVAC unit to reduce the risk of damage. 

Also, as a final general tip, know where your main water and gas shutoffs are, as well as your main breaker. Hurricanes can cause water main breaks, gas line breaks, or brownouts where lights dim and flicker a lot. Make sure you can shut these off safely; do not try to access them if there are hazards present.

While weather can be hard to predict, your efforts will reduce the likelihood of needing to call someone out to repair your unit (or any of your other utilities) later.

The post 5 Hurricane Season Tips for Your HVAC appeared first on Kalos Services.

• Early experiments with evaporative cooling using ether and alcohol
• The birth of closed-loop refrigeration systems
• Dangerous early refrigerants like ammonia and sulfur dioxide
• The game-changing invention of Freon (R-12) in 1930
• Environmental concerns leading to CFC and HCFC phase-outs
• Modern refrigerants and their trade-offs between stability and flammability

Learn why we’ve come full circle, revisiting some of the earliest refrigerants with a modern twist. The history of refrigerants is an interesting one!

The post History Of Refrigerants appeared first on Kalos Services.

Drain backups are far and away the most common A/C service calls we get. We usually get a call saying that the A/C isn’t working and the thermostat is blank. Then, when we go out and investigate the problem, we end up having to clean a drain because it’s backed up. 

Luckily, drain backups are often pretty easy for you to solve on your own, so you don’t need to be without A/C or pay a contractor to come out!

How do I know if my drain is the issue?

If you have a blank thermostat, the first thing you should do is check your float switch. This device will usually be located right in front of your indoor A/C unit or at the end of a downward-sloping uninsulated PVC pipe along the side. It has wires that run into the unit.

The float switch is a safety device that stops your unit from running when there’s a drain backup. A/C units produce water and are supposed to drain it to the outside—that’s why you may have a wet patch of grass near your drain outlet or see it dripping. When clogs happen, that water will back up into the unit, and it will spill over if we don’t stop it.

That’s where the float switch comes in to save the day. Its goal is to prevent the A/C unit from flooding and causing damage to your home. If there is a clog in the drain, the water is supposed to back up into the float switch before it spills over. The bottom part of the switch can move, so it floats when water fills the area beneath it. This part trips the switch and disconnects power to the unit when it reaches the top.

You can figure out if the float switch has tripped by pulling it out. If you see water in the piping where the float switch came from, you can be confident that the drain has backed up and needs attention.

What you need to clean a drain at home

Your DIY drain cleaning will need five key ingredients:

• A shop vacuum (usually range from $30–100)
• A large jug of water (preferably hot)
• A funnel
• A turkey baster (or some paper towel)
• White vinegar

Notice how bleach isn’t on the list. While bleach can definitely kill microbes and algae in your drain, the chemicals may also damage your A/C unit’s metal parts. Instead, you are better off pouring a cup or two of white vinegar into the drain monthly.

The process below will explain how to clean the drain, including opening the service port that you will use to pour vinegar and water into the drain.

How to clean a drain

1. Locate the drain outlet, which is usually near the outdoor unit, and attach a shop vacuum to the outdoor end of the drain. In many cases, the standard hose fittings won’t fit the drain, but you can seal the connection better with duct tape or a wet towel wrapped around the hose and drain.

2. Make sure the shop vacuum has power and turn it on to start sucking buildup out of the drain. The suction power alone may free the clog.

3. Pull off the service cap on the insulated PVC pipe at the indoor unit. This cap covers the cleanout or service port, which is the opening we use to pour liquid into the drain. If you can hear air flowing, that means that the vacuum has removed the clog. If not, then you may need to call a professional.

4. Using a funnel to direct the flow, pour a jug of water (preferably hot) into the service port opening. Pour about 2–3 gallons of water into the drain.

5. Once you have finished pouring water, cap the service port and shut off the shop vac outdoors. Disconnect the shop vacuum and dump out its contents in a safe location.

6. Uncap the service port again and SLOWLY pour a little bit more water into the drain without a shop vacuum attached; this is how you prime the trap of your drain, and it is a critical step. 

7. Remove the water from the float switch with a turkey baster or soak it up with some paper towel to reset it. You need to get ALL of the water out of the switch. 

8. Turn on your A/C unit. The thermostat should NOT be blank. However, due to a built-in time delay, it may take around five minutes for the A/C unit to begin running. Verify that it runs within five minutes.

While drains are usually quite easy for us to fix, we don’t want customers to be without air. If the method above doesn’t cut it, Kalos Services can come out and break up severe clogs using all-natural, food-safe chemicals. However, fixing your typical drain backup can be an easy DIY project that only takes a few minutes and requires only five simple, common items. 

The post Homeowner Tips: How to Clean a Drain Line appeared first on Kalos Services.

If you have an HVAC system installed in the last 25 years, the refrigerant is most likely R-22 or R-410A. As of 2020, R-22 can no longer be made or imported into the USA, and R-410A is currently going through a phasedown. While we can still get our hands on stockpiled R-22 and R-410A to charge existing systems, we will see A2Ls replace those in new units. A2L refrigerants have similar properties to R-410A, but they have one key difference.

A1s & A2Ls

The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) sorts refrigerants into categories based on two factors. This system assigns a letter (A or B) to describe toxicity and a number (1, 2L, 2, and 3) to describe flammability.

Class A refrigerants are non-toxic. These can still displace oxygen in tight spaces and make us sick from a lack of oxygen, but they don’t directly damage our respiratory systems. Class B refrigerants, like ammonia, are toxic and will make us sick.

Class 1 refrigerants are deemed non-flammable under a set of test conditions. Class 2 refrigerants are moderately flammable, and Class 3 refrigerants are highly flammable. Propane is an example of a non-toxic, highly flammable refrigerant, so it is an A3. Below is an example of an A3 in a controlled testing flask (The A1 test conditions require a flame in a controlled flask to stay within the 90-degree angle shown within.)

The flames of some refrigerants just barely make it past that 90-degree angle and aren’t really anywhere near the “moderately flammable” Class 2 status. We needed a new category for refrigerants that are just slightly flammable, so Class 2L was made specifically for them.

The refrigerants we’ve mostly used up to this point (R-22, R-410A, and old-school R-11 & R-12) are A1 refrigerants. We will begin to see R-32 and R-454B in residential HVAC systems; these are A2Ls.

Why Switch to A2Ls?

This century, we have used two main refrigerants in A/C systems and heat pumps: R-22 and then R-410A. However, both R-22 and R-410A are quite bad for the environment. 

R-22 is a refrigerant containing chlorine (an HCFC), which depletes the ozone layer. Making and importing R-22 has been illegal in the USA since 2020. While it is still legal to own these systems and for contractors like Kalos to replenish them, we must use stockpiled or reclaimed R-22. 

Meanwhile, R-410A may not deplete the ozone layer, but it is a major contributor to global warming. Its impact is 2088x greater than that of carbon dioxide. As a result, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has started mandating the gradual reduction of R-410A production. The goal is to reduce production by 85% by 2036 in five stages. We are currently in stage two; production has been reduced by 40%.

The EPA has also issued a final rule banning the manufacturing of split R-410A equipment (with a separate indoor and outdoor unit) by January 1st, 2025. However, contractors like Kalos can install these through January 1st, 2026, and parts for existing systems will remain available for as long as it makes sense to keep them on the market. 

A2Ls R-454B and R-32 have emerged as replacements for R-410A in new residential HVAC units. These refrigerants are far less harmful to the environment than R-410A and R-22.

A2Ls are also not particularly new. Europe and Japan have used A2L refrigerants in their residential HVAC units for a while now. Most cars manufactured over the last decade have also used A2L refrigerants in their A/C systems. The most common refrigerant in vehicles on the road today is R-1234yf, which is also an A2L. 

A2Ls and Safety

A2Ls do not contain hydrocarbons like propane and butane, which are A3 refrigerants that burn easily. They really aren’t that much different from A1 refrigerants; they offer similar efficiency rates and definitely don’t have the same risk as a furnace or gas stove. Still, the HVAC industry has taken a few safety precautions to protect technicians and you.

These new units will have a sensor that trips when it detects a leak; it will shut off the compressor but turn on the blower, which will disperse the concentration of refrigerant. A2Ls are not compatible with A1 units, so you will need to purchase a new unit when your current system’s service life is over; however, the piping can remain as is if you choose to replace your existing unit with a new one of the same size.

A spark should not ignite an A2L, but your HVAC contractor should also insulate anything electrical that could spark, including compressor wires.

A2L systems do not pose much more of a safety concern than A1 systems. You would never want to smoke or bring an open flame near your HVAC unit or any part of the system, but that is true of A1 systems as well. You’ll also want to be extra careful and avoid using electrical appliances that could spark near your HVAC system.

Conclusion

Over the next couple of years, we will see A2L refrigerants make their way into the marketplace. Starting in 2026, pretty much all new A/C systems and heat pumps will contain an A2L refrigerant—either R-32 or R-454B. A2Ls have the “mildly flammable” label because of how they respond to testing conditions—not necessarily field conditions. 

However, these A2Ls are highly unlikely to ignite in your home when proper precautions are taken to keep flammable materials and sparks away from them. A new A2L-based HVAC unit won’t be much different from one that uses the R-410A we’ve been using, save for a few new safety features.

Kalos technicians have received training to work on A2L units and apply best practices to keep you and your family cool and safe.

The post What’s up with “Flammable” Freon (A2L Refrigerant)? appeared first on Kalos Services.

A capacitor works like a pressure tank membrane or a balloon; instead of storing and discharging water or air, it stores and discharges electrons. Electrons make up the current, which we measure in amps. That electrical current goes to the compressor and outdoor unit fan motor to help them start up.

To help you visualize that concept, think of the capacitor as a balloon that inflates and deflates 60 times per second (since 60 Hz is the standard electrical frequency in the USA). That then creates a phase shift, which applies directional force to get a motor to spin. You can also think of the capacitor as the person spinning a wheel on a game show; instead of pushing or pulling a wheel directly to get it to spin, that person’s hand (the electrical current) applies force at an angle.

When the capacitor fails, the compressor and outdoor fan can’t start properly. If you’ve owned a home in Florida for a long time, the chances are pretty high that your A/C unit has stopped working due to a failed capacitor at some point. So, why do capacitors fail? Why do they fail so often?

We’re going to look at two very common causes of capacitor failure. Hopefully, the information below will explain why capacitor failure is especially common in Florida.

OVERHEATING

This answer is pretty straightforward. The capacitor just gets too hot!

As electrons pass out of a capacitor, they generate heat. Capacitors contain oil, which helps keep them cool while those electrons pass. Capacitors that are made cheaply or installed incorrectly may not have enough oil; for example, if a technician doesn’t install a capacitor upright, some of the capacitor’s insides might not have enough contact with that oil. So, the heat dissipation isn’t good enough and may lead to failure. We try to prevent these causes of failure by installing capacitors correctly and using American-made capacitors.

The outdoor temperature can also cause capacitors to fail. As you all know, Florida is HOT. So, it’s hardly a mystery as to why so many capacitors fail during the summer. Unfortunately, we can’t exactly stop Florida from being… well, Florida. The best we can do is rely on well-made capacitors from companies we trust.

Dirty outdoor units can also cause premature failure. When the coils are impacted with soil, pet hair, plant material, etc., it becomes much harder for heat to escape the unit. So, a maintenance agreement with an HVAC contractor can allow a professional to clean your outdoor coil thoroughly and help prevent capacitor overheating. It’s usually a good idea to have maintenance procedures done in the spring in fall so that your equipment can prepare to keep you warm (fall) and cool (spring) for the upcoming seasons.

EXCESSIVE VOLTAGE

Another common cause of capacitor failure is excessive voltage, which can have a few root causes.

Florida is notorious for its thunderstorms. After all, we do live in the lightning capital of the USA. Unfortunately, there isn’t much we can do to prevent direct strikes (though those events are unlikely).

However, we can think about how to prevent power surges that affect the incoming voltage from the transformer. Those can happen during storms, and they can cause over-voltage conditions that reduce the life of your capacitor. Your best bet would be to install a quality surge suppressor that can shunt the excessive power to ground and protect your HVAC unit (and your capacitor).

We’ve also noticed that the power companies sometimes supply too much voltage without a surge event. A lot of residential equipment is rated for 230v power (208v for light commercial units), and the voltage that’s constantly incoming might slightly exceed that. Small yet constant overvoltage conditions may cause your capacitor to fail prematurely.

As you can see above, we can expect a capacitor to reach 100% of its lifespan if we maintain 100% of its rated voltage and nothing more. (Of course, that’s barring any other conditions that decrease a capacitor’s lifespan.) The higher the voltage goes, the less likely the capacitor is to reach its full life expectancy. To put that into perspective, if the utility company were to send out power that’s just 105% of the rated voltage, we can expect the capacitor’s lifespan to halve.

Of course, there are other reasons why capacitors may fail. However, the causes explained in this article are two of the most common in our Central Florida market. With power surges and excessive heat being staples of life in Florida, capacitors sadly don’t fare so well.

If your A/C unit stops running this summer, then it’s likely that a failed capacitor is to blame. Give us a call at (352)-243-7099, and we’ll send a technician to do a full system diagnosis. They’ll get to the bottom of the issue and address any other possible areas of concern. We also offer high-quality replacement capacitors that are made in the USA.

The post Why Do Capacitors Fail? appeared first on Kalos Services.

Science has some convenient explanations as to why that happens. With knowledge of how and why ducts and air handlers sweat, we can take steps to reduce or correct excessive sweating.

HUMIDITY AND THE DEW POINT

Many attics in Florida don’t have air conditioning. So, attics often get very hot and humid during the day. The outdoor air is warm enough to contain a lot of moisture, and the air that’s floating around in the attic (not near surfaces) is quite similar.

It helps to imagine the air as a cup of tea or coffee. A lot more sugar can dissolve into hot drinks than cold ones; if you mix too much sugar into cold drinks, it’ll just settle at the bottom.

Humidity works the same way; colder air can hold less total moisture than hot air. That’s why there’s a pretty big difference in the total moisture content between 80% relative humidity when it’s 55° outside and 80% relative humidity at 95° outside.

There is WAY less absolute moisture in the colder air; that’s why cold days with high humidity feel nowhere near as sticky as hot, humid days. When the relative humidity is at 90% on a 55° day, there’s much less moisture in the air than when the relative humidity is only 75% at 90°.

When the air reaches 100% relative humidity, it can’t hold any more moisture; some of the moisture will have to come out. So, that moisture condenses in the form of dew. The temperature at which the relative humidity reaches 100% is called the “dew point.”

Dew or “sweat” starts to form on surfaces at or below the dew point temperature. In September 2021, the maximum dew point was 77°, and it often gets cooler than that at night. (The roof decking also absorbs heat from the attic and rejects it to the outdoors at night, further cooling the attic.) So, when all of the moisture from 85°+ air accumulates during the day, it may sweat all over the attic at night. Not to mention, when the A/C runs during the day, cool air moves through the duct. If the dew point is 70°+, then air moving through the ducts is likely a lot colder than that, even if it’s merely maintaining a 75° setpoint.

That doesn’t even address condensation on cool, reflective surfaces of the ductwork.

EMISSIVITY

A lot of the heat that gets into our attics gets there via radiation. The sun beats down on the roof decking, which provides a supply of radiant heat. That heat then gets absorbed through the roof decking. From there, it gets into our attics.

The roof decking is dark and opaque, meaning that it absorbs over 80% of the sun’s heat instead of reflecting it. Objects that absorb a lot of heat also tend to emit a lot of heat. However, we often have silver flex ducts in our attics, which are very reflective and emit very little heat. Reflective surfaces stay cooler because they absorb less than 20% of the sun’s heat. By extension, the air that is near those surfaces stays cooler. That’s why many people use reflective sunshades on their windshields when they park their cars.

It is, however, worth noting that no material can reflect or absorb 100% of radiant heat; materials and objects that can do so are merely theoretical.

Radiant barriers are examples of highly reflective materials. Some Florida homes have large sheets of foil-like material beneath the roof decking; those sheets reflect heat absorbed and emitted by the roof decking back towards the roof. Everything beneath the radiant barrier stays cooler, but sweating is much more likely to happen due to the lower attic AND surface temperatures.

Materials that absorb heat stay hotter and are less likely to have condensation on their surfaces. For example, some designers use black flex duct, which sweats a LOT less than silver flex. Unfortunately, the heat absorbed and emitted by the black ductwork also makes its way into the air within the ducts. So, the air that comes out of the vents will be hotter.

HOW DO WE CONTROL DUCT AND AIR HANDLER SWEATING?

So, we’ve determined that duct sweating occurs due to humidity and surface temperature, which is controlled by the emissivity of materials. To control sweat on ducts and air handlers, we have to target either humidity or surface temperature.

Using black flex ductwork is one example of manipulating emissivity to reduce duct sweating. However, black flex ductwork is often less durable than silver flex ductwork and results in hotter air coming out of the vents. We can also manipulate the emissivity by removing an existing radiant barrier. Higher fan speeds can also cause the duct surfaces to be warmer. On the other hand, higher fan speeds are less effective at maintaining lower relative humidity than lower fan speeds.

It might, however, be more prudent to control humidity in the attic. We can start by focusing on ventilating or sealing the attic.

We often see cases like the image above. There will be holes in the foam of the attic (sometimes called “Icynene” after one of the brand names). Those holes ventilate the attic and allow moisture to come in, and the case above is a poor design. Done right, ventilation can allow heat to move in and warm up the surfaces of ducts and units. However, if you have a well-ventilated attic, you’d be at the mercy of the often-high outdoor dew points.

Sealing the attic by itself is not a great move, as moisture can seep in through cracks and won’t be able to get out easily. However, sealing the attic is a good solution when a dehumidifier is also added to control the moisture in the space. The dehumidistat shown below indicates that the attic is maintaining 40% relative humidity, which is great for an attic. It’s also maintaining an attic temperature of 71°. In that case, we sealed the holes that had been made for ventilation and turned the attic into an airtight conditioned space.

Now, running a dehumidifier will raise your power bill, but it will keep your air handler, ducts, and vents from sweating. Unfortunately, many solutions that reduce power bills, including radiant barriers, can actually have a negative effect on indoor health and comfort. However, a well-trained HVAC professional can help you come up with a solution that aligns with your priorities.

So, if you have ducts or an A/C system in your attic, you may want to check to see if there’s sweat all over them. If so, that excess moisture creates an environment where fungal growth can thrive. That’s not good for your attic or your indoor air quality.

However, solving the problem of a sweaty attic is pretty straightforward with the right equipment and a good understanding of how humidity, dew point, and emissivity all work together. We teach our technicians the scientific fundamentals behind the work they do and explain why solutions work; our techs are well equipped to handle sweaty ducts, vents, and air handlers in attics and crawl spaces.

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Sometimes, technicians have to add refrigerant, but it’s usually not because the refrigerant “goes bad” inside the system. Refrigerant doesn’t typically “wear out” in the way that we might imagine. However, blended refrigerants can cause a drop in performance when their mix becomes uneven. This article will explain why refrigerant doesn’t “go bad” as we might imagine, how blended refrigerants can “go bad,” and why we might need to add refrigerant to a system.

HOW REFRIGERANT WORKS

A/C and refrigeration systems absorb heat and reject it somewhere else.

Inside the air handler of an A/C unit, cold liquid refrigerant moves through the evaporator coil. The blower moves air over the coil. Since the air is warmer than the refrigerant, it loses some of its heat to the refrigerant. As the refrigerant absorbs that heat, it boils; the fluids used in A/C and refrigeration systems have much lower boiling points than water. The refrigerant is under pressure in an HVAC system, so the boiling point is typically around 40 degrees Fahrenheit in a typical residential A/C unit. (However, at atmospheric pressure, R-410A has a boiling point below -55 degrees Fahrenheit!)

Once it has boiled off, the now-vapor refrigerant moves to the compressor, where it is squeezed into a smaller volume and gets a lot hotter. The discharged vapor then moves to the outdoor unit, where the outdoor temperature is far lower than the vapor temperature. A fan blows over the coil, and the hot vapor loses some of its heat to the cooler air. As it loses heat, it becomes a liquid again.

After the refrigerant becomes a liquid, it returns to the indoor unit and undergoes a pressure drop before repeating the cycle at the evaporator coil.

The refrigerant does that over and over, and it doesn’t wear out in the process. It simply changes from liquid to vapor and back again as it absorbs and rejects heat.

Grocery refrigeration systems work similarly; evaporators absorb heat from inside the refrigerated boxes, and the condenser rejects that heat outside. There are usually many compressors, and the refrigeration cycle takes place with the help of large racks that can control multiple evaporators and compressors.

WHY MIGHT I NEED TO ADD REFRIGERANT?

Refrigerant doesn’t wear out, but it can leak at fittings, valves, or through pinhole leaks in the copper or aluminum. Leaks are likely when a joint or valve has been poorly brazed in. Corrosion on the evaporator coil or line sets can also cause pinhole leaks.

Many leaks are usually very slow, but they negatively impact your equipment’s ability to remove heat. A smaller volume of liquid in the evaporator coil won’t be able to absorb as much heat as a larger amount. The smaller volume will also heat up more than a larger volume, and it may lead to overheating in the compressor as well.

So, we can add more refrigerant in the short term. Even though the production of R-22 was banned in 2020, it is still legal to add R-22 to older systems. However, recharging the system can be very costly due to the lack of newly produced stock.

A long-term solution would be to replace the leaking components, which could be a line set, valve, or even an evaporator coil. An HVAC technician should do thorough leak detection and pinpoint the location of a leak before offering to replace a leaky component.

However, significant leaks can cause even more trouble in systems that use blended refrigerants.

WHAT CAN HAPPEN TO BLENDED REFRIGERANTS?

Some blended refrigerants can “go bad,” but it’s not in the way we think they can.

R-410A is an example of a refrigerant blend. R-410A uses R-32, which is a good refrigerant but is flammable. To temper the refrigerant’s flammability, manufacturers mix R-32 with R-125, which is a flame suppressant. The R-410A example goes to show that whenever you mix refrigerants, you mix chemicals with different properties.

Those different properties cause those refrigerants to have “glide,” which is a range of boiling points based on all refrigerants in the mixture. R-410A has very little glide, but refrigerants like R-407C have significant glide. R-407C consists of R-32, R-125, and R-134A. When there is a leak, the higher-pressure refrigerants leak out faster than the others in the mixture. The uneven losses cause “fractionation,” which causes the refrigerant’s chemical makeup to change, leading to swings in temperature and pressure. Those dramatic swings can cause poor performance.

For that reason, technicians must add blended refrigerants to HVAC systems in the liquid state (not vapor). HVAC technicians must also check tanks and systems for leaks. A significant leak in an HVAC or refrigeration system may cause fractionation, but even small leaks can alter the chemical makeup of refrigerants stored in upright tanks.

If there is a reason to suspect that fractionation has occurred inside a system, it’s typically best to have an HVAC technician recover all of the remaining refrigerant in the system. Then, the technician would charge the system with brand new refrigerant (and make sure to add it in the liquid state).

Pure refrigerants (like R-22 and R-32) simply won’t wear out. They can deplete if there are leaks, but they don’t stop working. The same is somewhat true (but more complicated) for blends; the refrigerant doesn’t completely stop working, but the fractionation caused by leaks may cause a performance decline.

All of this is to say that refrigerants don’t get dirty and break down like car oil. Refrigerants can do the same job over and over again for several years at a time. Leaks are often the culprits of performance concerns, not the refrigerant “wearing out” or “going bad.” That said, if you notice a decline in your system’s performance, it’s a good idea to contact an HVAC/R professional to find out if any leaks or other potential issues are causing your HVAC/R system to perform poorly.

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Unfortunately, buildings contain many harmful particulates. Most of us probably aren’t aware of what’s really in the “dust” inside our homes and what we produce when we cook, clean, do laundry, or merely exist inside a house. Many of the particulates that probably come to mind, including pollen and pet dander, can aggravate our immune systems but are usually too large to get into the bloodstream and make us very sick. However, many more particulates, including viruses and bacteria, are small enough to get deep inside our respiratory tracts, enter the bloodstream, and harm us.

The HVAC system is a key piece that can make our homes healthier and manage indoor pollution. However, we first need to understand what’s in our air, how it gets there, and how it affects our bodies.

WHAT REALLY IS DUST?

I think most of us have a pretty good idea of what “dust” is. We see it as a film of dry particles that forms on objects that haven’t been touched in a long time.

That’s dust that has settled. Before dust settles, it’s suspended in the air and is often made up of particulates that we can’t see. Many of those particulates are dead skin cells; the average person sheds about 7 MILLION dead skin cells per hour! Other biological materials include dust mites, pollen, pet dander, decomposed insects, and spores.

All of those sound pretty gross and could make us cough and sneeze, but they’re not exactly unexpected. However, dust can also contain harmful chemicals and heavy metals.

Tobacco smoke residue, pesticides, plastic, fiberglass, and even lead can accumulate in dust! I don’t think anybody wants to breathe those in (or at least deal with the health complications that may result).

Now, some of those particulates make a lot of sense; if you smoke cigarettes and live in a house with pets and plants and regularly use cleaners and pesticides, you can expect those things’ respective particulates to show up in dust.  But what about the construction materials and spores?

INFILTRATION

When we think about where our air comes from, we’d like to think that it’s been filtered through the A/C system and delivered via vents. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. The photo above shows the “boot” around a supply air vent, which is where conditioned air enters your home from the duct system. The large gap all the way around is a path for attic air to get into the home. The dust and spores from the attic mixed with condensation and became a moldy mess.

If you have gaps and cracks in your home, especially around vents, conduits, and recessed lighting, your house can draw in nasty, unconditioned air from the outdoors or the attic.

We may think that range hoods or bath fans are good for exhausting air pollutants from cooking, washing, cleaning, and other human activity, but they’re actually a double-edged sword. While those forms of ventilation will exhaust some pollutants, they pull the house under negative pressure. To replace the exhausted air, the house has to draw in air through gaps in the structure (also known as the “building envelope”). That air is likely coming in through gaps and cracks in the envelope. The HVAC system can’t filter or control that air, so all of the particulates infiltrate the home unregulated.

The air that comes in could be from the outside, which may contain pollen and residue from outdoor activities (like burning leaves). Even worse, that air could be coming from the attic, which contains lots of dust and could even contain bacteria and fungal spores.

WHY MANAGE INDOOR AIR POLLUTION?

It’s easy to say: “Don’t do [X]! It’s bad for your health!” So far, I’ve been pretty broad about the health concerns associated with indoor pollutants. However, there are some specific risks that come from spending a lot of time indoors and inhaling harmful particulates.

Those risks come down to particle size and the nature of those particles.

Particulate size matters

Larger particulates like pollen are unlikely to make it into the bloodstream; they will get caught somewhere in your nose, mouth, or upper respiratory tract. These large particulates can cause allergies and trigger an immune system response, but they are unlikely to cause significant damage to your internal organs. As far as sizing goes, these particulates are called PM 10, which indicates that they are 10 microns in diameter. (By comparison, a human hair is anywhere from 50-75 microns wide.)

Particulates get a lot more dangerous when they get down to PM 2.5 or smaller. These particulates are small enough to enter the small sacs in your lungs (called alveoli) and get absorbed into the bloodstream. Combustion materials, including carbon monoxide gas and smoke, fall under the PM 2.5 category. Heavy metals and mold spores also happen to fall into that category. Bacteria and viruses can be even smaller, with bacteria typically being between 0.5 and 2 microns in diameter, and viruses tend to be around 0.3 microns. The SARS-CoV-2 virus that causes COVID-19 is only between 0.06 and 0.14 microns wide.

Biological pollutants

Viruses, fungi, and bacteria are the three main biological pollutants that can make us sick. They can all be smaller than 2.5 microns and are invisible to the naked eye. However, they work in slightly different ways.

Viruses are very small and aren’t actually alive, per se. They can’t reproduce on their own or grow on surfaces, but they insert their DNA into our cells, and the infected cells continue to go through natural cell division with the viral genetic material. Those bad copies of cells are what make us sick. Because viruses aren’t “alive,” we can’t “kill” them. Soap and cleaners can deactivate viral proteins on surfaces, but that doesn’t help us address viruses in the air. Filtering the air with high-quality media or HEPA filters helps a bit, and diluting the air by bringing in some filtered fresh air helps, too.

Unlike viruses, bacteria and fungi are alive and can reproduce on surfaces and inside your body. Even though individual bacteria and spores are nearly impossible to see, you might still be able to detect them. Bacteria and fungi can cause smelly odors in your home, and fungi can grow into visible patches of mold. Once they get inside your body via your nose and mouth, bacteria and fungi cause infections like pneumonia.

Since bacteria and fungi grow on surfaces, some IAQ products like UV lights can kill them on the surface of your equipment. However, UV lights can only kill the microbes that they shine on, and they’re not effective at killing microbes in the airstream.

Chemical pollutants

Chemical pollutants include organic compounds, metals, and products of combustion (fuel burning).

One of the deadliest indoor pollutants is carbon monoxide (CO), which results from the incomplete burning of fuel in gas, oil, or wood-burning appliances. If you have a gas range, fireplace, water heater, or furnace, then you would be wise to keep carbon monoxide on your radar. CO poisoning can cause flu-like symptoms and even death in large amounts. A low-level CO monitor helps you keep track of carbon monoxide near appliances and can help you catch a problem with your equipment before anyone gets sick.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) isn’t quite as infamous as carbon monoxide; it’s what all animals exhale. However, large amounts of CO2 can also cause occupants to feel fatigued or even sick. You may consider investing in a CO2 monitor if you live in a home with lots of people or animals that stay indoors for extended periods.

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs), especially formaldehyde, are gases that are released from household objects over time. Many of those VOCs are also known carcinogens; taking steps to manage these particulates reduces your risk of developing cancer. Cleaners, paints, flooring, and furniture are just a handful of objects that can attribute their odors to VOCs; the chemical smell of a new couch or a fresh coat of paint comes from VOCs. Even the nice “new car” smell comes from VOCs given off by the upholstery!

Smoking indoors also introduces many pollutants into the home. Formaldehyde, the VOC described above, is also a byproduct of tobacco smoke. However, according to the American Cancer Society, tobacco smoke contains other byproducts that may cause cancer, including arsenic, benzene, and even lead. So, avoiding smoking indoors can keep you, your family, and your pets a lot safer inside your home.

A THREEFOLD SOLUTION

As with most problems, there isn’t a simple fix or method for managing indoor pollution. However, the trio of proper construction, regular maintenance, and healthy habits can make your home so much safer.

Proper construction

Thoughtful construction in the first place is a huge help. Plumbers and electricians need to seal the spaces around pipes, wires, or conduits; otherwise, nasty attic air could seep through those openings and travel through the walls. It’s also best to seal the cracks around windows, vents, and recessed lighting as a best practice. On the HVAC side, the duct installer needs to be sure that the connections are airtight; duct leakage, especially around collars and vents, is another source of infiltration.

HVAC contractors can also install ventilating dehumidifiers, which can dehumidify the air AND bring in some fresh air through a dedicated return path. The air from the outside passes through filters and gets dehumidified, so you don’t have to worry about mixing low-quality air into your conditioned air.

Regular HVAC maintenance

Regular HVAC maintenance is also a key to managing indoor pollution. Some good maintenance procedures include replacing filters, checking duct connection tightness, and cleaning the coils. If duct connections become too loose, an air gap could result. That air gap causes indoor pressure to change and could suck in unconditioned air or exhaust conditioned air.

If you replace your filters frequently enough and have a maintenance agreement with an HVAC company, you can also expect your equipment to be more energy-efficient and last longer.

Healthy habits

The arguably most important piece of the puzzle is the adoption of healthy habits. Avoiding smoking indoors prevents tobacco residue and its byproducts from decreasing the air quality. Frequent filter replacement in homes with pets or plants is also a good habit. Safe cleaner storage is another huge piece; if you can, store chemical-based cleaners outside the home (such as in a shed).

Vacuuming floors with a high-quality bagged vacuum cleaner can help out a lot, too. The bags ensure that the dust and dirt stay trapped inside the vacuum cleaner. Moreover, bags allow for safer disposal.

All of this is just to say that it’s important to manage indoor pollution. While some IAQ products like UV bulbs can help, maintaining a healthy home requires a multifaceted approach. You can keep yourself from getting sick from airborne pathogens and chemicals if you have a tight, well-maintained home and adopt healthy indoor living habits.

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These units are small, and the blower wheel and evaporator coils can gunk up quickly. In many cases, mini-splits are visible in the living space, so odors and dirt are more of a problem than if the units were tucked away. So, we recommend routine cleaning and maintenance for ductless mini-splits to keep them odor-free and in tip-top shape.

This article will describe what a mini-split maintenance procedure looks like at Kalos. We follow the best practices included in the “Mini-Split Maintenance Best Practices” guide on SpeedClean’s website; Kalos president Bryan Orr wrote that initial guide.

WHY DO I NEED MAINTENANCE ON MY MINI-SPLIT?

On any type of A/C unit, regular maintenance helps prevent underperformance, poor indoor air quality, and premature failure. However, the little mini-split requires special attention during maintenance due to its size. It may be tempting to say, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” However, that’s an unwise approach to mini-split maintenance. When HVAC contractors don’t have a chance to perform maintenance, small issues can spiral out of control quickly.

Since ductless mini-splits are so small, they don’t hold a lot of refrigerant (also known as “Freon” or coolant). A small leak may not significantly affect a typical split system for a while. However, you’ll be much more likely to notice a performance drop with even small leaks if you have a mini-split system. During a maintenance procedure, we’ll check the charge of a mini-split and try to locate any leaks.

Mini-splits are also more likely to be in the living space. So, the sights and smells associated with dirty blower wheels are a much more significant comfort concern. In some cases, the blower wheel can even spit the dirt out of the unit and onto the surfaces below the unit. Not to mention, dirty blower wheels and filters reduce the air quality in your home.

With a good maintenance plan in place, you can expect better air quality, a more comfortable home, a more efficient HVAC system, and a longer-lasting unit.

WHAT TO EXPECT ON A MAINTENANCE CALL FOR A DUCTLESS MINI-SPLIT

So, it’s time to have your mini-split cleaned and maintained. You’re probably wondering what the technicians will do inside your house when you schedule this type of procedure. So, what can you expect on the day of service?

Preliminary conversations

Our techs should call you to let you know when they are on their way and when you can expect them to arrive. When our techs arrive at your home, they will put shoe covers on, greet you, and discuss the scope of the plan. The scope of the plan includes the maintenance procedures they’ll be doing and an approximate timetable of completion.

If you have noticed anything strange going on with your ductless mini-split, now is the time to let the technician know. The technician will inspect the system anyway, but they’ll be extra diligent if you bring any concerns to their attention.

If any payment is due at the time of the service, the technician will also let you know and ask you how you would like to pay.

Preparing for the cleaning

The technician will start by inspecting the entire system. They will run heat pumps in both heating and cooling modes to check for abnormalities in each operating mode. The technician will also check the coil’s cleanliness, listen for noises, examine the tightness of electrical connections, and assess the line set location and insulation.  If you notified the technician of any problems, they’ll pay close attention to the potential causes of those problems.

Before cleaning, the technician will need to shut off the power to the mini-split. They should let you know before shutting off the power and may give you an estimate of how long the house will be without A/C. Once they have confirmed that the system is off, they will lay drop cloths down to protect the floors and surfaces below the unit. In many cases, they’ll also connect a shop vacuum to the drain line to get standing water out of the drain.

Then, they will likely disassemble the unit. Some units may not need complete disassembly, but the filters will almost surely need to come out and be washed.

If needed, the technician will continue taking apart the unit by removing the vanes on the bottom. In some cases,  the technician will remove the face of the unit and likely wash it outside if they deem it necessary.

Sometimes, the blower wheel will also need to come out. When it does need to be cleaned outside, the technician will release the drain pan and let it hang down from the system. (We train our techs to make sure there’s no water in the drain that’ll splash on anything.) Then, the technician can lift the coil and access the blower wheel; they will loosen a set screw and remove the blower wheel from the unit.

The actual cleaning

Regardless of how much the unit has been disassembled, the technician will usually wash the filters outdoors with the hose and give them ample time to dry. If other parts have been pulled and need to be cleaned outdoors, the technician will do the same. Clean water will suffice for most cleanings, but we sometimes need to add non-toxic enzyme-based cleaners to exceptionally dirty blower wheels. The outdoor coil also needs cleaning and upkeep, so the technician will go outside and rinse the outdoor unit. If you have a regular maintenance schedule, then the outdoor unit shouldn’t get too dirty between maintenances.

Indoors, the technician will set up a bib, which is a large funnel-like bag that mounts to the unit and drains the water into a bucket below. Again, in many cases, the unit can be cleaned with just water. However, we may need to use non-toxic cleaners for exceptionally dirty systems.

The technician will give everything ample time to dry before reassembling the mini-split. They’ll also wait to make sure that the unit itself is dry before running the unit. There may still be a little bit of moisture on the blower wheel when the unit first starts up, so the technician will likely keep the drop cloth and bib in place to prevent splashing and property damage.

Cleaning and maintaining the drain or condensate pump

In many cases, the technician will clean the drain while reassembling the unit. If the shop vacuum is already attached, the technician can simply flush water through the drain. The technician can usually wipe the drain pan clean, but flushing water ensures that the drain line is clear.

Not all units will have condensate pumps. However, the ones that do will have a reservoir behind the indoor unit. The technician will pop off the top of the reservoir, clean it out, and disconnect the reservoir to clean the tubing. They will use a shop vac to clean out the tubing going to the drain pan like a normal drain line. They’ll make sure that there aren’t any patches of algae blocking screens, sensors, and other important parts.

In particularly stubborn drains or condensate pumps, the technician could potentially blow compressed air or nitrogen into the drain. However, flushing the drainage systems with water will often suffice.

Before the technician leaves, they will check to make sure that the unit is draining as it should. They’ll also make sure that the drain is insulated and that it doesn’t have any signs of damage or deformities.

CHECKING THE PERFORMANCE

The technician should wait until AFTER the cleaning to check the performance. That way, a dirty filter or blower wheel won’t be a potential cause of problems. The unit should run for about 15-20 minutes to give the components time to dry and equalize before the technician starts checking the performance.

Mini-splits don’t contain much refrigerant, so our techs try to minimize losses; they typically use probes or temperature clamps rather than gauge manifolds whenever possible. Technicians will also check the electrical components with their meters; they will ensure that the voltage and amperage are all within an acceptable range. While the unit runs, the tech will also check line temperatures and airflow as well as listen for abnormal sounds.

In some cases, we pull the refrigerant charge out of the unit and weigh it if the line temperatures seem off. If there is enough refrigerant, we’ll return it to the system. Sometimes, there will be too much refrigerant or too little; the technician may have to add or recover some refrigerant.

When the technician finishes, they’ll clean up the job site and have a conversation with you to close out the call. If you have any questions for them or comments about how they could have served you better, you can bring those to their attention. Once the system is running and all the tools have been cleaned up, the technician will be on their merry way.

So, a lot happens maintenance calls for ductless mini-splits. The procedure may take up to a few hours, but it’s necessary to keep your mini-split working at its best to keep your home healthy and comfortable. A good maintenance program is a key part of owning ductless mini-splits, and HVAC companies like Kalos can offer regular, thorough maintenance for your ductless mini-splits.

We also install mini-splits at Kalos Services; as a Mitsubishi Diamond Elite Contractor, we have access to top-notch manufacturer training and tech support. By getting installation and maintenance through us, you can be confident that you’ll experience the very best that Kalos Services and Mitsubishi have to offer.

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